Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Apr 28, 2007 03:52pm | #1

   g'day mate,

   I have a Laguna bandsaw, and their ceramic guides work well, though any ceramic guides would work the same I suspect. If it's possible to get a teflon coated bs blade, that alone might solve your problem.

   Or else use some bush mechanic solution like building a bath solution of detergent and water inside the base of the bandsaw, with a fixed brush above it, to clean the blade.

   ps. I miss the trams in downtown Melbourne.

   Expert since 10 am.

1. 
   Mountainrider | Apr 29, 2007 01:40pm | #2

   Thanks Jackplane,
   Trams are great now (Light rail i.e.)especially for those with a Seniors Card.
   I have been lubricating blade with a brush dipped in kerosene - works fine but slows things down - I am sure the ceramic guides are the answer.
   I am building a model 118 gun ship, and have been collecting Holly which needs to be sawn green.
   I am also resawing seasoned Huon pine which is fine.
   Thanks for your reply,
   Kind regards,
   Mountainrider

2. 
   jazzdogg | Apr 30, 2007 12:50am | #3

   We run several different Laguna band saws at school and the ceramic guides work well as long as they are properly adjusted and maintained. When we cut resinous wood we have to increase the gap between the guide surfaces and the blade; if we don't the build-up of pitch on the blade can grab and unseat the ceramic elements.

   One of our instructors sprays the blade with aerosol cooking spray ("Pam") to help keep pitch from building up on the blade and guides; it's not a perfect preventative, but seems to buy him a little extra time between blade cleanings.

   Good luck!

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   Cincinnati | Apr 30, 2007 03:23am | #4

   This is the first I've heard of this. I thought the ceramic guides prevented pitch from accumulating due to the scraping action.

    

1. 
   jazzdogg | Apr 30, 2007 03:43am | #5

   "This is the first I've heard of this. I thought the ceramic guides prevented pitch from accumulating due to the scraping action."

   That hasn't been our experience. We normally set the gap between the blade and side-guides at a distance about the thickness of a cigarette paper. However, when we're sawing (particularly re-sawing) resinous species we have to widen the gap considerably; when we've failed to do so, the friction caused by pitch build-up can forcefully pull the ceramics out of their fixtures.

   If too much feed pressure is applied, the rear ceramic blade guide ("thrust bearing") and can be scored (or pushed out of position if not secured properly), and the teeth can contact the ceramic side-guides, chewing up the side-guides and taking the set out of the blade. The rear ceramic blade-guide on the Laguna band saws are known to harmlessly throw small sparks in use.

   My two cents...-Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

2. 
   Mountainrider | Apr 30, 2007 04:26am | #6

   Thanks Jazzdogg,
   I was hoping to find that ceramic guides on Laguna would tend to wipe the blade. (Holly Timber I am cutting is still "sappy" rather than resinous).
   I presume "Pam" spray is a canola oil or like.Regards,
   Mountainrider

1. 
   jazzdogg | Apr 30, 2007 04:33am | #7

   In my feeble mind sap is just another kind of resin - it's all hard on saw blades and blade guides.

    -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

3. 
   Scrit | Apr 30, 2007 10:56am | #8

   To overcome the resin problem companies like Panhans can actually supply you with a blade scraper which goes at the rear of the lower wheel. For resinous or green timbers I've always preferred solid block (hardwood, cast iron or Bakelite/Tufnol) to bearing guides which always seem to clog up or fail prematurely.

   Scrit

4. 
   forestgirl | Apr 30, 2007 07:25pm | #9

   Re: lubrication, you might want to try the recommended solutions from Suffolk Machinery:

   1. For the woodworker using 1" and 1 1/4" bands:  For proper lubrication mix HIGH ADHESION CHAIN SAW BAR OIL, with 50% kerosene or diesel fuel. Apply the solution with a spray bottle to BOTH sides of the band about once every four minutes, while the machine is running. When this lubrication is applied, the sound of cutting decreases over 50%. DO NOT APPLY AGAIN until the sound of cutting starts increasing. I guarantee you will be amazed! Longer life; No pitch buildup; No rusted or pitted bands! A great delivery system is the 12 volt windshield washer assembly out of an old car!

   2. "Pam" spray-on vegetable shortening is a great lubrication for 3/4" WIDTH AND UNDER band saw blades on vertical saws. (EXAMPLE: Delta, Grizzly, Jet, etc.) Unplug the machine. Spray Pam vegetable shortening on a rag and wipe on both sides of the blade while turning the upper wheel by hand. You will  hear a 50% sound reduction when cutting. 

   [Typing w/ 1 paw sucks; plz 4give typos]
   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
1. 
   Mountainrider | May 01, 2007 02:39am | #10

   Thank you Forestgirl,
   I will give the chainsaw oil/kero mix a trial. That sounds good.
   Regards,
   Moutainrider