Replies

1. 
   tailsorpins | Jan 25, 2006 01:41am | #1

   Deft "clear wood finish" was originally formulated to improve flow-out and retard drying ... especially for brushing.  It also performs well as a spraying lacquer.  Reserve the satin or flat coat for the last, using the gloss for all intermediate ones, as the flattening agent will obscure the grain.  This brand is usually available in the big-box stores and even Walmart.

   For a really quality finish, however, IMHO, nothing comes even close to the oil based finishes manufactured by Liberty Paint Co., Hudson, N.Y.  These are still made "the old way", but I caution you ..... once you try them, nothing else will do.  Especially the brushing lacquers and varnishes.....

   John in Texas

    

1. 
   user-49352 | Jan 25, 2006 05:25am | #2

   John,

   I agree with your assertion about hand-rubbed oil. In this case I am finishing moulding... many linear feet.. so a brush finish is needed.

   Thanks again

2. 
   PCM | Jan 25, 2006 05:11pm | #3

   Does Liberty Paint have a website, e-mail, outlets?

   Thank you in advance

   PCM

2. 
   Pondfish | Jan 25, 2006 06:16pm | #4

   I've had good results with Deft (nitrocellulose).  But beware, much of the success in brushing lacquer comes from having the proper brush, and not so much with the lacquer.  Also, avoid anything that is "water based".  MEK is nasty stuff, but water based "lacquer" looks like...

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
1. 
   tailsorpins | Jan 30, 2006 10:06pm | #5

   To get everyone on the right page ..... when I said "oil-based" finish, I was referring to varnishes and lacquers using an organic solvent, such as VM&P Naphtha, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, etc.  These finishes can be left as applied, by roller, brush or spray, (or wiped on), or they may be rubbed out to a satin finish with steel wool/wax, or even polished to a mirror-high gloss, using rottenstone or pumice and water or oil.

   I do not use nor recommend any of the water base finishes .... heck, I even hate to use the interior latex paints on the walls of the house ..... opting instead for oil-based semi-gloss & gloss for woodwork, and wallpaper for everything but the ceiling .... which gets the latex!

   Water based finishes simply do not stand up.

   Liberty Paint Corp. 969 Columbia St. Hudson, NY 12534

   (518) 828-4060

   I call them when I want to order, and you can request information be faxed to you, or I suppose they can Email data sheets to you.  These guys make the finest boiled finishes (the really old way) ..... you will be especially pleased with the results of "Golden Spike Railroad Varnish" or "Empress of China".  Also, these folks are the nucleus of the color-matching for historic sites nation-wide .... the owners  more or less "wrote the book".  Oh yes .... their varnishes are not cheap .... the new federal-mandated solvents cost ten times what the old ones did .... and this has driven the price quite high compared to the "big-box" prices ......however, the best quality finish is never cheap.

   And .... for the best results, you must use the very best brush you can lay your hands on.  Have plenty of solvent available, and when done, rinse the brush six or seven or eight times in fresh solvent .... until you cannot detect the presence of any finish, then rinse one last time, and hang to dry.  I have brushes (that cost thirty dollars or more apiece today) that have served me twenty-five years and still perform flawlessly, if I do my part.  (One hint: never dip a dry brush in the finish, instead dip it first in fresh solvent, shake out vigorously, then go to the finish!)   (Second hint:  Save the solvent from brush rinse three and on ... in an old can marked "unclean spirits", allowing it to settle out, then use it next time for brush rinse one & two.) 

   Good luck,

   John in Texas