I am starting on a coffee table and end tables of solid koa, fairly plain design. I would like to use a finish that is fairly durable (scratch, heat and alcohol resistant), but it doesn’t have to be quite as durable as needed on a kitchen or dining room table. The tables will be used for playing cards, setting down plates or drinks (hopefully with a coaster, but not everyone remembers all the time), etc.
I’m familiar with general guidelines and considerations on selecting finishes, but I would be interested if anyone has any specific tips or suggestions related to koa. I want to show off the wood while providing moderate protection.
Thanks.
Replies
I know by saying this A lot of people are going to tell me wrong. But I would use a good oil over it, nothing shows off the wood better than oil. I would put 6-8 coats of oil and wait for it to dry. Then use a really good paste wax on top. The main thing here is this allows easy fixing and refinishing down the road. Anything else will have to striped off and then refininshed. Oil is great that way, plus I have a coffe table with just oil on it and I have had no problems.
http://www.kalafinefurniture.blogspot.com
I have several pieces of Koa furniture in my home. My wife and I love it! When working with Koa it is just one of those times when you need to carefully plan out every detail from the start to finish. No room for errors or it will cost ya! Literally!
My choice of finish from my mirrors, picture frames, to my wine cabinet, and tables is ... Tongue Oil. I buy the "Formby's" brand and put on several coats. I like how it really soaks in to protect and with the wine cabinet gettting constant exposure and use, it is holding up GREAT!
Hope this helps. Not too many people know what Koa is. It's great to find another woodworker who uses it too. Best of luck to you.
For information purposes, Formby's Tung Oil Finish is not tung oil. It is a wiping varnish and a quite decent product. However, thinning any good varnish will give very similar results. Good traditional resin varnishes include Behlen Rockhard, Pratt & Lambert 38, or McCloskey Heirloom. You can also buy varnishes already thin enough for wiping. I like Waterlox. The Original/Sealer gives a mellow gloss. There is also Satin, and Gloss.
I don't recommend genuine tung oil. It takes several days (overnight is NOT enough) between coats, requires about 5 coats--flooded on and wiped off vigorously. Miss doing everything right and it can develop white areas.
Thanks for the tips. Fortunately, I expect to have enough scrap - and enough time - to thoroughly test out several possible finishing solutions before I decide.
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