I am in the process of stripping paint off 1934 knotty pine paneling and shelving in my library, and am wondering what might be the best finish to reapply to retain the natural wood finish. Should I apply a polymerized tung oil? Or should I just rub it down with wax — beeswax or a commercial furniture wax? Or should I apply some commercial furniture finishing oil concoction? Any thoughts?
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Replies
I'd probably use shellac. If you don't want to darken more than it is now, use a blonde shellac. Another alternative might be a wiping varnish such as Waterlox, which comes in three flavors, Satin, Original/Sealer, or Gloss. I doubt you would want Gloss, but the others might make a nice looking wall.
Polymerized tung oil is difficult to apply evenly over large areas.
Using just wax gives you essentially zero protection for the wood and would have to be renewed frequently.
I'm not sure what you mean by a commercial finishing oil concoction, but that brings to mind an oil/varnish mix such as Watco. That will give a modest degree of protection and need to be renewed occasionally.
I'm sure Steve's advice would be good--shellac will be lovely. You know it will eventually darken again. Good luck getting paint out of the knots, unless it was previously finished, which I hope--and imagine--it was. I had it in our house in the den and kitchen.
Actually, the shellac itself is among the least likely finishes to change color over time. But wood underneath is still subject to darkening.
The bad rap on old dark antiques with shellac as finish is likely that they were "maintained" with linseed oil or even a vinagar/linseed oil mix. That's what creates the really dark grungy finishes that antique sellers seem to thing should be a mark of value. Of course dirt happens to shellac as well as to everything else.
I meant the pine, not the finish.Gretchen
Thanks to everyone for the input. The shellac sounds great, and its shiny finish is what one would have expected in 1934 when the house went up. However, I'm interested in a more authentic, matte finish Colonial rather than glossy Colonial Revival look. Along these lines, my inclination is to go with Steve Schoene's recommendation of Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish. This, however, is not a "wiping varnish," but a penetrating polymerized tung oil. I've used it on oak floors and have been very well pleased -- a rich, softly lustrous, and durable finish. Sutherland Welles Ltd makes a similar product.
Waterlox (all three flavors, Satin, Original/Sealer, or Gloss) is in fact a wiping varnish, not a polymerized tung oil. Its a phenolic resin varnish made using tung oil instead of linseed or soya.
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