Replies

1. 
   RMillard | Mar 12, 2005 05:07pm | #1

   The roughness you feel may be beads of oil that have seeped out and cured. In situations where I apply several coats of oil to a piece, I apply the final one very thin using an abrasive pad or steel wool. I prefer the abrasive pad if there are any shaped area, as they are less likely to fray and leave bits of debris behind. I'm currently making a curly maple chest on frame, where all the flat surfaces were hand planed, and I have some very slight roughness, that I attribute to the seepage of oil. I actually did not expect this with maple, the pores being so small.

   Rob Millard

    

1. 
   BG | Mar 12, 2005 07:00pm | #3

   Rob,

   Thanks for the info. So much of the piece is glimmering nicely and I don't want to loose that with over sanding. I've got some Liberon steel wool, but I think I'll apply another light coat with the gray pad and see if that does the trick.   

2. 
   Pondfish | Mar 12, 2005 05:17pm | #2

   Wet sanding white oak with 400 grit and BLO will help fill the pores of the wood with a BLO/wood dust slurry.  You might try using 320 or even 220 first, since oak has a lot of pores to fill.

   Apply oil, wet sand, and let sit 10-20 minutes before wiping dry (try to wipe diaginally to the grain).  Most of the actual filling happens when you sand, not when you wipe, so be sure to sand well to force the slurry into the pores.

   Otherwise, BLO is not known for raising grain.  Be sure to wipe it dry after applying, and continue to spot wipe it for up to 24hours+ afterward, as oil will seep out of the pores.  You can always buff the seep spots down with steel wool (#0000 or a grey or white pad) after they dry.

   Good luck

   P

1. 
   BG | Mar 12, 2005 07:07pm | #4

   Paul,

   Thanks for the help. Ya know, I never wiped the piece after applying the BLO..so it's a good chance the roughness is the beaded oil.  I apply with my hands and transfer a bit of body heat to the oil..the shop is about 55 degrees.  I'll work in a light coat with a gray pad and wipe this time after 15 minutes.

   It may not be raised grain so much that I'm feeling...the roughness appears to correspond to areas where I needed to scrape a bit more(tear-out)...ergo, grain not laying flat.  

1. 
   Pondfish | Mar 12, 2005 07:20pm | #5

   If you don't wipe dry after applying oil, you'll have a mess when you try to sand it a day later.  The good news is sanding this dried mess will really help in filling the grain, so keep at it, stopping every minute to clean out the sandpaper (or sanding pad).

2. 
   nikkiwood | Mar 13, 2005 09:02am | #6

   What Rob said -- he's the best on this kind of stuff.BLO won't raise the grain, and as you have figured out, a lot of your problem is caused by not wiping off the excess oil.

1. 
   BG | Mar 13, 2005 01:58pm | #7

   Nikkiwood,

   I gave it a second hit yesterday with the gray pad...and wiped well. I could feel an immediate difference...developing that nice hard smooth surface feel.  This is when it gets tough for me...my shop is small and finishing ties up everything.  Sitting down there watching BLO dry is just not that exciting. But, I think doing this step properly may be well worth the time and frustration....wish I could kiln dry BLO....lol. 

1. 
   nikkiwood | Mar 13, 2005 05:30pm | #8

   I assume you're using BLO to pop the grain. There are other, faster drying alternatives.

2. 
   BG | Mar 13, 2005 05:57pm | #9

   nikkiwood,

   Yes, using BLO to pop the grain.  I'm trying to get into a relatively consistent finishing methodology...and keeping the cost down. The process now is mineral spirits to clean and check for defects, BLO with trans-tint, film finish.  The alternative is a watco or waterlox finish...and maybe Ill replace those with a maloof finish...trying to keep it simple. 

3. 
   RMillard | Mar 13, 2005 10:48pm | #10

   BG,

    

   You can add a little bit of Japan drier to the linseed oil. This will make it cure much faster. I put about a teaspoon of drier to a half quart of oil. When I applied the oil to my Chest on Frame the other day, the rags I used to wipe the oil were already stiff a few hours later, even in the cold shop.

   Rob Millard

    

4. 
   BG | Mar 13, 2005 11:23pm | #11

   Rob,

   Thanks, that is good to know.  Once it's dry to the touch, how long do you wait before the shellac...3 days, a week? 

5. 
   RMillard | Mar 14, 2005 01:32am | #13

   BG,

    

   This time of year, when it is cool in my shop, I'll wait 3 full days before applying shellac. In the summer or if your shop is warmer than my 60-65 degrees, I'd only wait 2 full days.

   Rob Millard

6. 
   wop | Mar 14, 2005 12:06am | #12

     What exactly is Japan drier chemically speaking. That way I can translate it into Italian and maybe find it here since it sounds useful.

                                                                                Philip

7. 
   RMillard | Mar 14, 2005 01:36am | #14

   Philip,

    

   I really don't know what Japan drier is chemically. I have attached a link to a webpage with Japan Drier, maybe this will help you. I hope the link works, I've never tried this feature before.

   Rob Millard

   http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=849-370&ov=3510&KEY=JAPAN+DRYER

   Edited 3/13/2005 6:38 pm ET by RMillard

8. 
   BG | Mar 14, 2005 03:10am | #15

   wop,

   I pulled this off the web:

   Drier. Last, stain manufactures add a drying agent to the formula to help it dry quicker. Usually this is some type of metallic drier like cobalt. This is sold commercially under the name Japan drier. It can be purchased in art supply stores, some paint stores and some mail order woodworking supply houses.

   Perhaps this will get you started...