Replies

1. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 11, 2005 02:13am | #1

   Not sure but I would laminate some straight grained hickory or plywood (hidden) and double/triple the thickness of the aprons...

   I am not sure I can assembly such a large top simply because of the weight of white oak......

   Not sure what you really mean.. Do it in sections. You would get a better glue-up doing it in sections..

   Lots of MUSTS! in there... But then again the customer is 'always' right!

   The top is to be also.. Nice.. Wish I could affords a 96 X 30 QS table top! Good luck..

   Just me but a white oak table top shoulden't need heavy aprons.. Should almost support itself if you can find sticks with straight grain..

   Just me though...

2. 
   DonC | Nov 11, 2005 04:17am | #2

   Do a search in FineWoodworking under the title "Strongback Table." I built this table. It has 4 drawers in the aprons, which ,of course, makes the aprons too weak. The solution is to place a strongback down the middle of the table. Corners of the top are supported by the legs. The published plans will work for your application also.

   don

3. 
   Segil | Nov 11, 2005 01:27pm | #3

   Can you place a  support gallery down the center lengthwise?  This will support the 96" span quite nicely and give you an opportunity to sprinkle in a few more design details.  This might require moving the legs in about a foot from each end, but a drawing should convince your client that this is a classic and beautiful look on this type of table.  On this H-shaped base, the apron becomes unnecessary, just beef up the 3/4" thick top to 1 1/4" around the edges and breadboard ends.  In my area, 3/4" QS white oak is easy to get, but anything thicker is hard to find.  This will allow you to select faces that have the desired concentration of rays for your top, and to arrange them in a pleasing pattern.

4. 
   Knotscott | Nov 11, 2005 02:43pm | #4

   I would start by mentioning your concerns about the strength and see if she'll compromise.  If not, I would add a couple of stringers hidden across the length at the top to augment the aprons, plus I'd check into that idea of some vertical support that stems from a lower stringer in the center between the legs.  If the latter is a no go with her, you might try some hidden angle supports from the legs to the table top that go from outer ends toward the center. (Arched instead of a straight angle might look nicer...)

   Let us know the outcome please...

    

5. 
   BG | Nov 11, 2005 05:40pm | #5

   Egret,
   A cupala thoughts worth about $.02...33" is pretty narrow..she should set up two place settings and see if it works...
   I'd definitely have more overhang and move the legs in...otherwise feet are always kicking legs when walking by....

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 11, 2005 06:44pm | #6

   As BG says, 33" is pretty narrow, so narrow in fact that to seat 10 is not going to be comfortable.  For comfort you want 2'0" per person.  This uses both sides, but doesn't leave room on the ends.   "Snug" seating calls for 1'10" per person which still doesn't leave room on the ends.  To seat ten, the table should be about 42" wide or more so people can be placed on the ends without reducing the numbers on the sides.  

   25" is considered OK for knee room, but even the 27"  she wants isn't going to provide room for really crossing legs.  Sit in a standard dining chair and try it.   I think that as others have pointed out, internal stringers can finesse the strength problem in reality, but that won't stop the table from looking weak. 

   Another thing to consider is whether an eight foot long table can be maneuvered into the dining room.  Often yes, but its not a cinch.  It will still be your fault if it doesn't fit, even if the client gave you all the dimensions. 

   Source: Ramsey & Sleeper, Architectural Graphic Standards, 1932 edition. 

1. 
   dmt | Nov 11, 2005 10:11pm | #7

   Thanks for all the input. Since I agree with all the comments, especially on the 33" width, I have decided to make a mock-up using my assembly table (an old door) with masking tape to define the actual 24" per person spacing requirement. The table is intended for a long narrow space, which is why she is so adamant. I think the mock-up will convince her to explore other options.

   Thanks again. 

1. 
   nikkiwood | Nov 12, 2005 07:19am | #8

   It sounds like your wife has a savvy friend who knows what she wants, which in my opinion, is a real blessing to you, the builder. I think the mock-up is a good idea, which will give her the opportunity to sign off on the rather narrow width -- before you deliver the final product. What I really want to know is how much you're going to charge her?********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   dmt | Nov 12, 2005 09:12pm | #9

   After seeing the mock-up she agreed that it is not a good idea (length vs. width looked really bad), so end of project.

   The only charge was to be for materials. I would get to build a nice project at no cost to me. 

2. 
   nikkiwood | Nov 13, 2005 02:52am | #10

   Too bad ...... no way you can shift gears on the design?********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

3. 
   dondownunder | Nov 13, 2005 10:37am | #11

   Egret

   'The only charge was to be for materials. I would get to build a nice project at no cost to me.'

   Why not come & work for me, I'll give you nice projects, using great timbers, good tools & equipment 8 hrs a day, 5 days a week & I won't charge you a cent, in fact I'll give you coffee & lunch:-)

   Don