Replies

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jan 25, 2004 09:14am | #1

   Alan, Are the sections all cubes with end grain tops and bottoms, If so, they must be perfectly square to avoid any gaps or wandering of the pattern also, the "Courses' should be offset (Like a course of bricks)

   If, on the other hand it is built of 1-1/4" x 24" lateral sections,the grain lines should be alternated to maintain flatness.

    I ,ve made several of these that require no glue, but do have splines (Contrasting color wood)

   Also, drilled through and through and bolted up with All- Thread and washers.

   Counter bore the exposed holes to hide the washers and nuts with plugs, (I used walnut.)

   These plugs must be glued with grain perpendicular to the lighter wood. 

   No finish is required and should be used on both sides for even wear. A gentle wetting,  scrubbing and drying is all you need, but DONT soak in water or put in dishwasher.

   Mine is now approaching forty years of age and except for a few sandings, still serves with honor. Stein

   
   

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   Edited 1/25/2004 1:32:45 AM ET by steinmetz

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jan 25, 2004 06:37pm | #2

   It would be my recommendation not to use a threaded rod. No matter how the item is finished, it is going to expand and contract. You don't want to do anything to impede that or the item can be ruined. You wouldn't constuct anything else with a cross grain constraint, so why would you do that with a butcher block?

   Here is what happens if you use a threaded rod. When the block expands, the washers and nuts on the end are pulled into the wood or the block becomes distorted. When the board then dries out, the rod is loose and performing no function. If you went and tightened the nuts, the same cycle will repeat itself.

   Also, with todays adhesives, no reinforcement is required. It will stay together perfectly fine with good gluing techniques.

   Of course your experience may be different but I have never had a failure on my non-metal reinforce blocks or cutting boards either.