Any ideas of a finish for red oak kitchen cabinets?
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Replies
Yes.
Of course.
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.
~ Denis Diderot
The reason for the rather "snippy" first responses is probably that your question is broad. Before a useful answer can be given a lot more information is needed about how you want these cabinets to look, and how you would like to apply them. For example, the answers would be completely different if you have the capabilities to spray solvent based finishes compared to being able to spray waterborne finishes, or needing to use hand applied finishes.
Do you want the oak to be stained--how dark? Do you want to fill the pores in the oak? Do you want the usual low sheen, or something shinier? Is this a full kitchen or just a few cabinets?
Fill in some of the blanks, and the same guys who gave such short responses are likely to come back with fuller and helpful responses. And others will in any event.
Aww we wuz just having a little fun!
Anyway, now that youv'e chimed in with such excellent suggestions for framing his question I gladly bow to your far greater expertise in this area.
Thanks for helping the guy out.
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
I know you were, but the OP hasn't been around here all that long, looking at his profile.
Cabinets I have made, I stained them a teak stain (Light tan) and then applied 3 coats of Minwax polyurethane and sanded then betewwn coats. For the last coat #4 I applied a Minwax wipe on finish to elininate and dust nibs and brush marks. The cabinets are about 6 years old and the finish is standing up well with no problems.
Thank you, Yes I should have put more info into the question. I'm looking for a light finish. I have read about minwax polythene and did want to know how it would hold up. THANKS
There are a number of excellent oil based varnishes on the market, and from the point of view of durability all should be quite durable. The special advantage of single-part polyurethane (poly) varnishes is that they are particularly abrasion resistant--important for floors, for cabinets, not so much. I would lean toward an alkyd varnish based around soya oil because these are relatively light colored to begin with, and tend to yellow less over time than the polys, which are based around linseed oil with a alkyd and polyurethane resin. For darker coloration there are varnishes using phenolic resins and either linseed or tung oil that can be good in those situations.
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