I am about to start finishing a walnut coffee table that is carved around the apron and has turned legs. I’ve used transtint dyes in the past with good results which I follow with either a coat of brushed on shellac or an oil/poly. I then apply a glaze, to bring out details in the turnings and carving, and then apply final coats of oil/poly. My issue is that the dye often gets moved around some when I apply the next step, brushing on the shellac or applying the oil/poly with a rag. I’m wondering about applying a coat of shellac from an aerosol can to seal in the dye and prevent this. I don’t have access to spray equipment. What do I need to look out for if I go this route? Will other finishes go on easily afterwards? Can I then sand out the raised grain after the shellac is sprayed on without risking going through the dye? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Of course, I’m in a bit of a time crunch, and so would like to be able to use the transtint and not have to try a new process at this late date if possible. Do you folks have any experience of spraying on the water based dye with a spray bottle? This piece has aprons and lower stretchers and sometimes it is tough to get the dye onto all the parts before the area you’ve applied it to first starts drying. I was wondering if a spray bottle might make shorter work of that process, and then I could wipe it all down with a dampened sponge to even it out. Thanks for any advice you all might have.
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast -
Our favorite articles and videos -
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Part of the problem is using TransTint dye. It is soluble in alcohol, solvents such as acetone and lacquer, as well as water, so just about any subsequent finish can dissolve and lift the dye. This effect is exacerbated by brushed or wiped applications. The aerosol shellac may do the job.
The best solution is not to use TransTint as a dye. TransFast powdered dye is available in a water soluble version that is not going to redissolve in shellac to any large extent. Using a powdered dye only souble in one solvent makes it easier to choose a compatible top coat. You still need to see that excess dye hasn't dried on the surface just waiting to be mechanically moved around by the top coat.
Thanks, guys, for all your suggestions. I'll look for the transfast powder, as I do tend to like to color my pieces, and the soluability of the transtint has been an issue for me.
This forum is an amazing resource! Thanks again.
Erin
Look into getting an inexpensive spray unit. I've been using a wagner fine spray ( costs about $100) it does a good job spraying some finishes. It doesn't have alot of adjustments but I've adapted to its short comings. I've been spraying zinser seal coat and it's done an good job. Just remember you are spraying mostly alcohol ( very flamable ) Get the shellac on and after drying lightly sand with 400 grit paper to knock down the bumps and continue with your top coats.
Aerosol shellac is a great choice! It is dewaxed and mixed to a 1 lb. cut which just happens to be perfect for use as a washcoat before glazing (or staining end grain). And being dewaxed, you can use polyurethane over it without adhesion concerns.
You can sand the coat of shellac just the same as any other finish you would use for a washcoat. You just need to be careful to sand VERY lightly so you don't cut through and get into the dye (same as any other finish). Make sure to use just one light wet coat of the spray can shellac so you don't get too thick a coat of finish over the dye. If it's too thick, the washcoat will reduce the amount of color you get from the glazing step.
http://www.finishwiz.com
em.... Why are you staining walnt? Is it kiln dryed (grey/blaaa looking?) Usually, shellac will "pop" walnut & bring out it's character.
James
Why can't you add the transtint dye to the shellac and then go from there?
We get to soon oldt und to late schmart
You can, but it's not nearly as forgiving as a dye mixed in water. That can be applied much more easily without worrying about wet edges and overlaps. It can be lightened if need be. And, trying to do a fairly dark dye mixed in shellac runs the risk of ending up with a PolyShades approximation. (Not really that bad, but still more hassle than its worth.) Shellac will raise the grain a bit too, so you still have to sand that first coat.
Steve,
You seem to have a lot of finishing knowlege, so I'm going to ask a follow-up. I put the dye on this afternoon. It was 1 tablespoon medium browm transtint to 1 pint water. Unfortunately, it looks pretty uneven. I'm hoping that it may look better by tomorrow, but don't have much faith. The top shows some obvious streaks, and it was really hard to get it even on the turned legs, aprons and stretchers. I basically flooded the surfaces, and then went back over it with a sponge dampened with the dye to make it all uniformly damp. Still, it looks patchy, with the legs looking much darker than the stretchers, the endgrain on the turnings darker than other parts of the turning, and somewhat uneven on even the flat parts of the stretchers. Can I lighten the legs with plain water? But then I wonder what will happen where the legs meet the stretchers and aprons, as I don't need to remove the dye there or create more patchiness. I think with the top, I may have to sand off the dye and try to reapply it. Any tips you might have for dealing with this will be so appreciated. I try to keep a wet edge, but it doesn't seem to have worked. Just when you think you're almost done, you make so much more work for yourself........Thanks in advance for your wisdom..
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled