I am currently making two shaker style end tables out of solid cherry. Since it is a solid top I can’t glue the top down. I used a new joinery tool, “Kreg” makes for blind screws and it is fantastic. Unfortunately, every time I release the clamps from the legs it returns to a non-square state and wobbles on the floor. Can anyone help me out? Thanks.
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Replies
Are you sure that your assembly area is truly flat, i.e. not a concrete floor. My floor is notorious for dips that are not visible until I glue up (uhg!).
Is it visibly out of square? can you trim the legs until it sits flush? I don't mean to patronize, but you have checked the top for flatness, and the assembly prior to pulling the top down sits flat?
I hear what you are saying about flat surfaces. I also carried the piece in the house to be sure and the surfaces are indeed flat. What I did yesterday evening seemed to work. I ripped 3/4" 90 degree blocks the length of the skirt around the tops of the legs and glued them and brad nailed them into the leg/skirt assembly. I clamped the base with a bar clamp and checked it this morning. It is holding square. Thanks for responding.
Are you using the pocket screws to attach the apron to the legs? Or, the top to the table? I'm having trouble visualizing what you're doing so it's hard to comment.
The prior poster asked if you are assembling this on a completely flat surface. He's absolutely right. If you don't have a work table you could consider using the top of your saw, assuming it's large enough. Or, if you'd like a cheap work table, buy a solid core door, put polyurethane on it to seal it (and so glue doesn't stick to it), and use it on top of sawhorses as an assembly/work area. If the sawhorses aren't level with one another (easy enough to check by using winding sticks), move them until they are.
After you've put the table together on a correct work surface, it should be square. If not, you probably have some ererors in your parts. Check opposing aprons for sameness of dimensions. Check legs for sameness of length.
And when you attach the top, I'd use wood buttons rather than pocket screws (assuming you were using the pocket screws for the top). The buttons attach to the top and have a piece that slides into a groove in the apron ... I make my grooves with my biscuit jointer.
And a good trick to get the top to stay in the correct position is to use a dowel (sticking up 1/4 of an inch) in the middle of opposite aprons. This would fit into holes drilled into the bottom of the top piece, and keep it in position. If you do this, ensure that the holes are drilled so that the long grain runs between the dowel holes. There won't be much expansion in this direction. You need to use the buttons to ensure that as the top expands width-wise it can move without breaking the table apart.
John
Thanks for the tips. I am using table top hold downs for securing the top to the aprons and using my biscut cutter to cut slots in the aprons. I cut 3/4" 90 degree braces for the corners of were the legs met the aprons last night and that seemed to do the trick. I re-read the pocket screw manual and it recommends using glue with the screws. I was not providing enough strength in the joints. Thanks again.
Thanks for the quick feedback. I've solved my problem. I used glue blocks where the legs meet the aprons and it is holding them solid and square.
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