Replies

1. 
   oldhand | Sep 13, 2008 04:18am | #1

   Depends on many things. To include: how wide the glue up, orientation of the growth rings to the sawn plane, density of growth rings, actual species of yellow pine,  etc. and more. A wild guess given your info is it will cup some, maybe a lot, stay glued fine & your polyurethane will be o.k. But that's a wild guess. 

   Retired until my next job.
2. 
   SteveSchoene | Sep 13, 2008 05:36am | #2

   Nineteen percent moisture is a lot, the maximum that wouldn't require it be called green, and just low enough that it won't rot in the stacks.  It may not have been sufficiently kiln dried to "set" any pitch pockets, as around knots, making them hard to seal in with finish.  Even shellac could not succeed in such cases. 

   If you want to use this for indoor furniture, I would suggest giving it plenty of time to aclimate to your shop stickered for circulation and weighted to help keep it flat.  Better I would get a furniture grade wood, really kiln dried to around 8%.  It will be much more stable and reliable to work with. 

   A table top glued up from this might well shrink a full inch in width, from 30" at 19% to just under 29" at 6%, a common wintertime humidity level.  Really!  It might shrink a little less if it were radial cut (quartersawn) but you won't see much of that in constuction lumber. 

   Check it out on http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/shrinkulator.htm 

    

   
   

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   Edited 9/12/2008 10:38 pm ET by SteveSchoene

3. 
   oldusty | Sep 13, 2008 05:56am | #3

      I would agree and add to Steve's wise words ,stickering the wood and allowing it  to dry and acclimate is your best bet before using. Also if you mill to final dimensions after the drying and movement occurs you can have more material to work with in most cases .

         Pine is often  stickered covered and Air Dried , I guess even after kiln drying the wood is subject to it's environment , if your garage was damp and the wood was stacked on the slab it may not dry out the way you want and it the RH factor will and does change , even moreso with air dried woods in my own experience with many local Western woods .

            dusty

4. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 13, 2008 06:28pm | #4

   I use 2 x 12 SYP around two times a year to build work-bench tops with for sale. I would suggest two things if you use it. First.. look at the end grain and you will likely see the pith (dark center growth ring) near center of the board on 2 x 12. I carefully select boards with the pith as close to center as I can find but... are still straight on the shelf at that time.

   Having the pith will usually lead to cup once the SYP starts drying out. So... once I have it back at the shop I rip the 2 x 12 up to the edge of the pith on both sides and throw the pith away.  By cutting up to the pith you now have quarter sawn or rift sawn SYP with the growth rings at a diagonal. ///// This is good.

   Second... sticker it and let it dry a 19% is loaded with moisture and it's going to come out and better it comes out before you re-glue and assemble than after. I love SYP and it is very cheap here in Atlanta. It will serve well in certain roles if you take pre-cautions before the fact.

   Good luck...

   Sarge..

    

1. 
   Ronaway | Sep 13, 2008 06:47pm | #5

   Let me get this straight Sarge, you "rip the pith out of it!"(grin)RonIf you're too open minded your brains will fall out.

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 13, 2008 07:08pm | #6

   Oh yeah.... and as of the other day.... I rip the pith out of it with 5 HP just so the SYP knows it got ripped with the full authority that the Sarge can deliver to newly recruited stock. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..

   Regards...

   Sarge..

   Edited 9/13/2008 12:09 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47

1. 
   mapleman | Sep 14, 2008 02:33am | #7

   I rip the pith out of it with 5 HP just so the SYP knows it got ripped with the full authority that the Sarge can deliver to newly recruited stock.

   SIR! YES SIR!

   Ha Ha Ha

   Lee