I am hoping to build a table out of cherry, the top being 96″ long and 36″ deep. The design has the boards running the length of the table (i.e. each board will be 96″ long).
I have never finished rough-sawn lumber on my jointer this long. I have a 6″ jointer with a total bed length of 60″ (infeed and outfeed table lengths are each 29″).
Can I finish boards this long on this type of jointer?
If so any tips? (e.g. how to support the wood on the outfeed?, etc.).
Thanks.
Up
Replies
Hello up. No question you can joint 8 foot boards on your jointer and without the need for additional support. There is a certain touch required that you will only develop with practice, but it certainly is within the capacity of the machine.
up,
I am doing the same as you: 6" jointer, Cherry table, 36" wide, and I have never jointed boards this long before. The only difference is my cherry table is 94", not 96". I will start planing and jointing these boards this week or next. I hope I don't mess it up. Will keep you posted.
Marcello
Marcello,
I normally joint boards by hand (no jointer easily available), but saw this and kicked myself - will make the job quicker & easier.
All it is is a strip of 1/2 inch ply on another board - if you've never made a shooting board before, they're not that difficult - just remember to put a groove into the base board under the straight edge so that the dust/plane shavings fall into this and do not foul the straight edge.
Here's a more informative picture.
Cheers, eddie
edit: broken link and spelling
Edited 12/30/2002 3:40:08 PM ET by eddie (aust)
eddie, thanks for that info. haven't seen anything like it, then again, haven't seen much. i'll try the edge jointer first, since i bought it already, might as well use it. good to know other means and methods.
marcello
Hi Marcello,
Misread your post yesterday - thanks for your reply. When I re-read your post about 1 hour after I wrote my reply, I had my finger on the delete button to remove my post, but then thought it's better to leave it up because it may be of use to someone. Sorry to waste your time.
eddie
Edited 12/31/2002 3:49:28 PM ET by eddie (aust)
Eddie,
Glad you left it. Always interested to see what my cousins are up to down there.
Cheers,
Greg
eddie,
no waste of time. it is good to know those things weather you use them or not.
Have you thought about using a router? You will need to make a jig, so you can clamp 2 of your boards down at the same time and to where the edges you will be routing are elevated "so you are not cutting into you bench". You need at least a 1/2 straight bit. What you want to do is lay out your boards like you want to glue them up. Start with one of you outside boards clamp it down and clamp a straight edge to the top of the board" edge of your router base to the cutting edge of the bit less a 1/6. Climb cut the edge.Leave the board and straight edge clamped down . Now clamp your next board leave a 7/16 gap and clamp it down. Climb cut it"run the other direction with the router". One thing to remember the router base is not dead center just make sure to keep the router in the same position as you made your first cut" say keep the wing nut side to the straight edge " the edges will fit perfect even if the straight edge isn't dead straight. That is If you don't bobble the router If you do just re rout it . Its easier than it sounds and would be easier on something that long.
Just another option
hope it helps
Ron
Ron
speaking of using a router ..... have you or anyone else out there seen or used the joint-ability tool . it uses a router ond a straight edge guide .
i have seen it at the shows and it looks good , but have never talked to one of us " normal " guys who has one . !!
leif
I have seen the joint-ability tool .Haven't use one .
Ron
Greetings Leif!
Sounds like a good Scandinavian name-
I purchased a joint-ability tool and the spiral router bit sold along with it and love it. I believe it to be superior for jointing. I got the 5 foot long version, and not the 8.5 foot one which would be needed by the person who started this discussion.
I have glued up several cutting boards just to test it-I also got Plano clamping system at the same time-the Joint-ability and Plano make quick work of edgegluing.
I highly recommend it.
Ted
Hi Ted
Yes your right.....Norwegian to be exact !!
I guess i had better do something quick , the way the are upping the price .
I saw it at a show a year or so ago for $199 , the last price I saw was $299 .
Thanks for the input .
Leif
Leif,
I came across this review whilst looking for something else http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/jointabillit.htm as you do, hope it helps.
Ian
Ian
thanks a lot for the website .
I checked it out and it had some good info .
thanks much
Leif
Leif, after becoming very frustrated with my bench top 6" jointer I finally broke down and purchased the 8' jointability. It was one of my best shop purchases! The device works great for putting a clean, straight edge on any board. When not in use I just store the jig on edge against the wall. After using it for a few months I can strongly recommend it. Bill
Maybe I'm missing something here but I jointed a lot of 8' material on my 6" Jet. It certainly was a lot easier when I talked the wife into helping to hold one end on the thicker/heavier (8/4) stuff. (It also had the advantage of helping me convince my wife that I needed an 8" Jointer.) I saw the Jointability system at a WW show but I didn't see the advantage over Tru-Grip and some of the other systems (that are about half the price).
Just IMO,
Jim
I've not attempted any boards this long either, but awhile back I saw an intriguing reader's shop tip in one of the old WWing magazines. The gentleman had rigged up a piece of 1/4" or 3/8" plywood in a workstand (like a Workmate), positioned off the outfeed end of the jointer bed. The piece of ply was perched sort of like a leaf spring, and the workpiece would slide nicely onto the semi-flopped ply and ride along that for support.
Sorry, wish I had a pic, but have no idea where in the stacks this work tip is now. Someday I'm gonna try it just for fun.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Greetings!
Once years ago I visited the shop of Espinet (Arthur Carpenter) in Baulines, CA. He was making a table top at the time from a stringy, brittle south American wood called Shedua. He was jointing the edges on a rather small jointer and not all that long either. I asked him about that. Here is what he said. He liked the small joiner because when edging the long pieces it actully created a slight curve in the distance of the board so that the middle width was slightly narrower than the ends.
When he glued it up, the ends touched and the bar clamps pulled the middle gaps together with the pressure. Espinet claimed that created a more stable, taut top, that the internal stress stabilized the large surface.
I have not had sufficient experience with table tops that large to argue or prove his point. No question, his table tops were exquisite and beautiful.
Something to consider.
Ted
Tried my 6" jointer with some 8/4 stock 102" long x 8" wide. That Koa was way too heavy to manage any kind of technique. Roller stands just added more misery. I made a long sled and straightened them on my TS which has a nice roller outfeed table. From there clamped mating edges together and worked-up a sweat with my #7 Bailey.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
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