Replies

1. 
   sinsin | Feb 23, 2009 12:06am | #1

   Go to the "Advanced Search" and key in thread 44795.1

2. 
   THintz | Feb 23, 2009 12:15am | #2

   While it is always important to be sure the jointer is set up rght, it is just as important to remember that this is one of the most technique-dependent machines we use. take a look at the links below for stories we have on the jointer that were written in response to to the many email questions just like yours that we get every week.

   http://www.newwoodworker.com/basic/usejntr.html

   http://www.newwoodworker.com/jntrtaprs.html

    

   Tom Hintz

   Because there is always more to learn!

1. 
   JayTran | Feb 23, 2009 06:29am | #4

   Thanks for the suggestions. I read those links and my tables are parallel by using the 2 framing squares method for checking the plane of the tables.
   As far as my outfeed table being high, it doesn't stop the wood from sliding onto the table, so I don't think that is it.
   I thought my technique was correct but maybe that's the reason.
   I did do a search before I posted but my results did not really apply to my problem.

1. 
   mrbird90 | Feb 23, 2009 07:05am | #5

   The out feed table being high does not stop the wood from going over it because the rotating blades have removed most of the stock. By high I mean the out feed table may only be .005 to 010 higher than the top of the blade. Last week I noticed that my  jointer was taking more off the front than the rear and checking with a gage found that the top of the blade was .0055" lower than the out feed table. Enough to cause a big difference in stock removal fron one end to the other.

2. 
   RickL | Feb 23, 2009 03:32pm | #7

   Having your outfeed table a few thousandths too high will cause the tapering effect. This is a common occurence as the knives get dull.  More than a few thousandths will cause the board to hit the edge of the outfeed table.  I've been tuning and rebuilding machinery professionally for 25 years. As simple as a jointer seems it's very perplexing  in it's own simple ways. Half of my service calls for planer feeding problems are just simply waxing the bed.

   Edited 2/23/2009 7:33 am ET by RickL

   Edited 2/23/2009 11:15 am ET by RickL

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Feb 23, 2009 11:09pm | #8

   Rick,If blades aren't sharpened regularly, would you suggest checking/realigning the outfeed bed more often?I always wax my bed. It makes it easier to get out of be in the morning.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   RickL | Feb 24, 2009 12:12am | #9

   If the knives are dull enough so the outfeed table is higher then you should change the knives. Dull knives tend to push the wood up and not cut.

2. 
   JayTran | Feb 24, 2009 03:32am | #10

   Thanks for the input. My knives do not raise a straightedge when rotated and I don't think my outfeed table is too high because I'm not getting stuck on it when pushing through wood.
   The piece I was machining was pretty straight just rough, but I usually run a crowned piece through with the crown down
   I tried again concentrating on my technique and it seems to be a little better. I should probably invest in one of those magnaset tools as well, along with a straight-edge...just don't like buying the tools to ease in set-ups, not very fun and some are kink of hokey.
   Thanks again for the advice guys.
   -Jay

3. 
   RickL | Feb 24, 2009 04:03pm | #11

   I don't think you understand the outfeed table being high comments. A few thousandths will cause the conditions you describe and the board will not stop at the table edge. It could very well be your technique.  Concave side down (hollow in the middle) is a better way to start your stock on the jointer. Your description isn't that clear on crown side down. 

    

4. 
   JayTran | Feb 25, 2009 03:44am | #14

   Sorry Rick, I meant concave side down. Chris I checked, the knives aren't too high, in the past they were and I was getting snipe on the end of the boards.
   -Jay

5. 
   flairwoodworks | Feb 24, 2009 09:34pm | #12

   Jay,A little more on the out feed alignment, if you don't have a straight edge, use a quality steel edge, like one from a combination square. Set it on the out feed table and check the knife height when they are at the very highest part of the arc, called top dead center.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

3. 
   mrbird90 | Feb 23, 2009 05:42am | #3

   My experience tells me that your out feed table is too high. You cut the wood going into the blades then the wood is raised by the out feed table so the blades contact less and less until the ther is no removal at the end. Check this out first.

4. 
   TonyCz | Feb 23, 2009 09:10am | #6

   Jay what is the depth of your cut? also are you cutting the crown side up or down?

   The crown should be up with the bowed edge side down and take successive cuts from one end only nipping away at the edge to get it close to being straight, maybe three passes and then flip the board around and take one or two full passes and see if that helps. You may need to set your depth of cut deeper then you normally do on the first three passes! 

   I call or refer to boards like this as having a good Who-ki-Lao.

   Remember pressure needs to be equal over the board as well and up against the fence, by this I mean place your hands over the board on the in feed side and as you run the board over the cutter start to move your hands over to the out feed side so you keep the board on the table at all times.  Also having good footing, or stance while jointing to me is also very important. I find myself walking with the board as I pass it over the jointer.

   Jay,Ok if that did not work take a straight edge and place it on the out feed table and with the power disconnected rotate the cutter head clock wise. See if the blades touch the steel straight edge and if it lifts it. if it is you will need to adjust your out feed table or just re set you knifes using a magnaset it really make things easy.  Also find the top dead center of the cutter and use a scribe to mark this on the fence. this is extremely helpful when setting sharp knifes.  

   Tony Czuleger

    

5. 
   JerryPacMan | Feb 24, 2009 10:20pm | #13

   Below is a link to jointer knife setup.  I used this method when I had knives.  I now have a carbide spiral cutterhead jointer.

   http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=61

   If you must a Oneway Multi-Gauge is a nice tool to have in the woodworking shop.  They are on sale at Hartville Tool for $72 with free shipping.

   http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12705

    

    

   Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.

   When your ship comes in... make sure you are not at the airport.

6. 
   JeffHeath | Feb 25, 2009 05:45am | #15

   Jay,

   Your outfeed table is too high.  

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/24/2009 9:47 pm ET by JeffHeath

1. 
   JayTran | Feb 25, 2009 07:45am | #16

   I checked the knives using the stick method given in an earlier post. It looks like you are right. I think the outfeed table might be a tad bit high. Also I don't think all knives are the same so I am going to reset the knives and then adjust the table so the knives are just a touch higher. Thanks everyone.
   -Jay