Please submit opinions and experiences…
I have a Harbor Freight 6″ Jointer — yes, mistake #1 I know.
A friend had the same model and I used it with good success on edge jointing rough lumber, so I bought one.
I have been trying to flatten some laminated 3″x3″ Beech on it recently and it is ruining my project!!!
The beds are coplanar, the fence is flat and square and the outfeed bed is/was set to be level to the cutter — I got no snipe.
The problem is that the pieces were coming off nicely jointed but they were twisted since the knives are so far off.
I checked the knives and they varied by more than .015″ across.
I took a knife out and held the cutting edge against a flat surface and could see a distinct gap in the center…at least .010″ or more and it tended to taper to one side– which accounts for the twist created in the wood that I jointed.
I’m throwing in the towel on these blades and will try a brand new set tonight — I’m shooting for no more than .001″ across the blade difference.
What are peoples opinions on good 6″ or 8″ jointers?
Am I going to chase my tail on the next jointer I buy or do the higher end ones come with knives that are easier to set?
Are the shelix heads worth the extra money?
Thanks
Erik.
Replies
Hope the new blades aren't from HF also!!
If you decide to get a new jointer and are trying to get good value, go for the Grizzly 8" jointers. If $$ is no object, a Powermatic long bed?? Plenty of choices in the high-end market.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I don't know if you can blame the jointer for poorly sharpened knives, Erik. The same effect will happen with any jointer. It's seldom that knives are ground perfectly straight and worse with long knives. Most of the grinding machines are not going to give you .001" tolerances. The thinnest human hair is a whopping .002"+-. I sure hope one doesn't get under your work and screw up your fit. The knives have to be set just slightly higher than the outfeed table, not flush. 6" jointer knives are rather easy to sharpen on a stone and you will get a straighter edge than you can with a grinder, less the serrations of the wheel.
Jointers are simple machines. Less expensive machines may have sloppier tolerances, lower quality components and looser quality control. There is a difference in the quality of the knives but it only means more sharpening. It would only be reasonable that the least expensive machine on the market may not be perfect. If your cutterhead isn't in line with the tables or a bearing has too much slop, you may have a problem. Most jointer tables can be adjusted to align with the head, bad bearings can be replaced. Even with a perfectly set up machine, operator input is a key in getting accurate results. There is a lot more to using a jointer than pushing the work across the knives.
I don't have any experience with Harbor Freight, so I don't know how the knives are mounted. I do have a Reliant which is also an entry level jointer. There are no jack screws on the cutterhead so you have to pry or push the knives to get them where you want. Jack screws are more convenient but they were not common on older large equipment either. You just learn to finesse them in a little at a time. I've used a lot of different jointers in various shops I've worked in over the years. Other than size and power, the big difference, once they are set up, is convenience features.
Sheilex and other types of cutting heads can deal with figured grain better than a standard straight knife. You can alter the cutting angle on straight knives if you face cantankerous grain often. I can't see putting a cutterhead on that costs more than the jointer. None of the commercial shops I've worked in use them. The jointers would get sharpened every week or so with the knives mounted on the machines. Other than edge joining, most other work, that goes across the jointer, gets additional milling. I'd say most shops don't need them, it's more a matter of whether you want them and you are willing to pay the extra.
Hello Eric,
Before you buy a new planer, try sending out the knives to be sharpened if you don't have the correct means to do so. I know the Harbor Frieght isn't a great tool, but it is simple enough to tune up and get a satisfactory result. I've got a similar cheap taiwan jointer and it does an adequate job. You might also consider making a sled to face joint your lumber and using a straight edge and router for the edges.
Good luck,
Carl McCarty
The tolerance you expect for blade straightness is extreme. Woodworking does not require the same precision as optical devices. I suspect the real problem is this: how do you adjust blade height and parallelism to the outfeed table? Did you receive a blade adjustment tool with the jointer? Do you have instructions for doing this?
The blades you have can be sharpened. If you possess a reasonable degree of mechanical aptitude, you should be able to make a guide for doing the job on your bench grinder though a sharpening shop might be faster if one is near. Anyway, a spare set of blades should always be on hand in case you nick the ones in use.
Good luck
Cadiddlehopper, former owner of HF jointer myself
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