Jointer: Cutterhead Pulley Set Screws
I bought a “pre-owned” Jet J-6CSX jointer a few weeks ago. I’m souping it up with a shelix head right now. I’m to the point of removing the cutterhead pulley and one of the 2 set screws is rounded off. The first set screw came out with a 1/8″ allen wrench, but no luck with the second…
so 2 quick questions…
any good ideers on how to get the set screw out?
anyone know a good place to find a replacement set screw? (the manual says it’s a 1/4-20×3/8 screw – is that something you’d be able to find at a common store or do I need to order it from Jet/WMH?
Thanks a ton!
Matt
Replies
Matt ,
You can try an easy out if you can find the right size , or you may have to drill the old one out .
Most any place that sells pulleys or a decent hardware store/ home improvement store or auto parts shop will have set screws unless it is only made by Jet .
good luck dusty
thanks Dusty - ended up getting it out with a torx screw driver - surprisingly useful! Is it worth heading to home depot to look for the set screws?
any hints on getting the bearings off the old cutterhead?
Set screws can be found in any well stocked hardware store, your local Home Depot may not qualify, or more likely they had them once but never restocked the drawer.
Bearings can only be removed with a press or a bearing puller, trying to remove them by prying or hammering will ruin them.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
>>Bearings can only be removed with a press or a bearing puller, trying to remove them by prying or hammering will ruin them
Or heat.
"Or heat" will ruin them or won't ruin them?
In any case, you can't remove a bearing by heating it since the shaft or bore will heat up and expand or contract also. Mild heating or cooling will help to fit tight bearings back onto a shaft or into a bore.
John W.
K. WHY? You just spent some big bucks for the new head so go for a very few bucks and start out with new bearings. This way your load sensitive parts are all new and "God forbid" the new head must be removed and sent to the doctor, you will have another head that you cleaned, lubed, wrapped up and put in the new one's box under a bench someplace, Right!
BTW, most bearings are not unique, but they are made in several grades. This is your chance to upgrade the bearings if you get the spec numbers off the old ones and talk to a machine guy . MSC and others have bearings. Don't be in a hurry here as this is a chance to do good for yourself-enjoy. Paddy
Good answer!Carolina Jack
1/4" 20 is a very common size. If you haven't hurt the threads in the pulley, you should be able to find set screws with an allen head in any True Value, Ace, etc. hardware store. They are in those walls of little plastic drawers along with tons of other useful doodads. If the threads are shot, you can tap the hole out with the next largest size.
To get the bearings off, you need a bearing puller. A typical automotive tool, not too expensive. Getting the new ones on can be done with a drift but a bearing press is much better. There are a few tricks. Put the shaft in the freezer for a half hour +-. Warm up the bearing but only about 100° in the oven. Grease the shaft well. Use a length of pipe that fits the inner race of the bearing and gently tap it on, keeping it even and square as you go.
Rather than take the chance of ruining an expensive part, it might be wise to take it to a machine shop. They have the tools and experience. It's normally a simple job for them.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
A bearing puller will probably cost more than just buying new. The new head almost certainly takes very common 6xxx series bearings which are a few bucks apiece from a bearing supplier. Higher ABEC numbers are not going to give any noticeable value for the money in a jointer. Don't use hardware store bearings though as they tend to be poor quality. Look for Japan or U.S. makes. Nachi is well respected, and I've had good luck with NTN in several machines.
Pete
thanks Pete - when I saw you mention the 6xxx bearing, that triggered in my head.... the bearings in the Jet manual are:
BB-6202ZZ
BB-6203ZZ
When I google for those models, I pretty much only find references to Jet/WMH and the bearings are $11.72 and $13.77.
Can you help me out a bit in deciphering those bearings and how I'd find a replacement from one of the brands you've mentioned?
If you leave off the BB- you'll get more people wanting to sell you those bearings than you'll know what to do with!------------------------------------
It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore
holy cow! you're right!
is there a particular type of local store I should look for those or is ordering online my best bet?
Those are 6202 and 6203 bearings with rubber shields on both sides. Two of the most common bearings on the planet. A press is nice to drive them on, but you can also use a piece of pipe just large enough to slip over the shaft, but small enough that it touches only the inner race of the bearing (not the shield). Slip the bearing over the shaft, pipe on the shaft against the bearing, and drive with mallet with light taps keeping the bearing going on straight. Keep everything very clean.Pete
Edited 7/19/2007 7:48 pm ET by PeteBradley
awesome - thanks again Pete. It's great to have someone that speaks bearing and can translate for the rest of us! Seriously, you've been a great help - in educating me and in preventing me from doing something really dumb. (well, probably many dumb things...)
Matt,
Too late for this project, but keep in mind for future reference:
You can buy the shelix head with new bearings and bearing blocks attached from Sunhill Machinery - then the change-over process is extremely quick and easy. Mine was $318 delivered for a Jet JJ6CS
Lee
thanks Lee - I went for the father's day special from Holbren, so it was 20% off (~$280).
Of course with the pain in the neck this has become, that's probably worth $38!
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