Replies

1. 
   RDNZL | Oct 28, 2009 05:14am | #1

   Non removable support arm for the guard? Both my Delta 6" and the PM 6" I use at work have no such thing. The guard and its pivot post remove as a unit. If you mean the rabbeting ledge, it is generally integral with the infeed table, and thus will not interfere.

   This technique does work. I found the article to be quite helpful, both the pictures and the text.

   Maybe further study would be worthwhile?

   Good luck!

1. 
   tkarlmann | Oct 29, 2009 01:24am | #3

   I cannot find a way to load a picture, but if you look where your guard attaches to the infeed table, -- the Powermatic shows this -- its a part of the infeed table casting outside of the 6" cutting area that goes near the rabbeting ridge of the outfeed table.  This is the reason for my concern for planing wider boards.  This "thing" would seem to get in the way of planing wider boards -- the overhang is preventing the board from falling onto the outfeed table -- only IF it's wider than jointer capacity.

   I do not the the purpose for this part of the casting.

   On my Ridgid, it's even longer than the Powermatic.  The Delta has it too.  If I sawed it off, I would have no place to attach the guard, but I could then see how planing wider boards would work.

   Thoughts?

1. 
   RDNZL | Oct 29, 2009 05:57am | #7

   Sounds like you've got an issue that is particular to the Ridgid.I need to apologize - I had assumed that the article you originally referred to was the one in issue # 204. Now that you have found that, what I said may perhaps make more sense. This technique assumes the availability of a planer. I have found in practice that the recommendation of a heavy first cut (1/16 - 1/8) is a good one, if you have enough material to allow same. Saves the use of the auxiliary table more often than not. Hard on the knives, though, or so it seems to me.

1. 
   tkarlmann | Oct 29, 2009 08:55am | #8

   Thanks for the clarification.  The second article was definitely news to me.  I wonder why the newer article didn't show up in my searching the FWW site?  Guess it takes awhile to get newer issues "in".

   Dunno about that #$%&@ pin yet.

2. 
   MKenney | Oct 28, 2009 05:20am | #2

   I don't know about J. jointer in particular, but there is a way around the problem you describe in this article, which ran just a few issues ago: https://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=32132.

   --Matt

   Matt Kenney / assoc. editor / Fine Woodworking
1. 
   tkarlmann | Oct 29, 2009 01:33am | #4

   The light just went on!  The problem I was describing is SOLVED by using what Mike Wilson describes as the Auxiliary Table in FW 204, P70!!!

   Thanks for that Link!!!!!!!!!!!!!

   Now.  Does anyone know how to get the pin out that's used as a pivot for the guard (Ridgid 6" Jointer)?  I tried grabbing it w pliers, it won't come out!  Driving it out from the bottom comes next, I guess.

   Edited 10/28/2009 6:38 pm ET by tkarlmann

   Edited 10/28/2009 6:45 pm ET by tkarlmann

1. 
   JohnWW | Oct 29, 2009 02:50am | #5

   The shaft that the guard is mounted on is permanently attached to porkchop portion of the guard. If you move the fence all the way to the back of the table you should be able to rotate the guard a full turn or so to take the spring tension off of it. Next, if you look at the end of the guard's shaft from below the table, you will see that there is a small horizontal bolt through it. Remove the bolt and, with the spring tension off the guard, the guard and shaft will lift off of the table. Don't hammer on machinery it is rarely necessary.John White
   Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007

1. 
   tkarlmann | Oct 29, 2009 03:56am | #6

   John and ALL:

   I have the guard already off, that was no problem.  However, for planing wider boards a small pin remains in the infeed tables' "porkchop" -- this pin is what the guard fits onto.  It looks like a simple pin, but it may be spring loaded to keep it in place.  Compressing it with pliers and pulling did not budge it.

   Without removing that pin the planer is unable to process wider stock.

   My thoughts:  I need to look at it again.  Perhaps once driven out, the pin could be replaced with a screw, once the hole is tapped.

   Thoughts?

   Edited 10/28/2009 9:11 pm ET by tkarlmann

   Edited 10/29/2009 1:56 am ET by tkarlmann

1. 
   JohnWW | Oct 29, 2009 03:53pm | #9

   Looking at the manual there is a guard stop pin in the table top. From the description it is probably an ordinary roll pin, a piece of spring steel rolled into a tube. The pin can be driven up and down in the hole by light tapping, the manual even tells you how to adjust it to catch the guard properly. You should be able to tap it down flush with the table, if it won't go down, remove it by driving it upward from below with a pin punch. The pin can be reused and will stay tight in the hole.John White
   Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007

   Edited 10/29/2009 9:04 am ET by JohnWW

2. 
   tkarlmann | Oct 29, 2009 09:56pm | #10

   John White:

   Thanks for the heads up -- I missed that note in the manual.

   Do you have nay plans to provide any updates for the "New-Fangled Workbench"?

   Thom Karlmann

3. 
   JohnWW | Oct 30, 2009 03:08pm | #11

   Thom,I have ideas for an updated version of the bench, but until I get into my new shop next Spring, I won't be able to actually build a prototype. There is also a major question on how to market the new bench, if I do it as a magazine article I only make a modest amount of money for the time and effort put into it, and I only make the one time writer's fee, no royalties for plans and the like. I am considering designing a new bench and marketing the plans myself, but that takes a larger up front investment with an uncertain return.John White
   Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007

4. 
   tkarlmann | Oct 30, 2009 09:03pm | #12

   John:

   I hear you.  I think all WWers that are doing this as a full or part-time business can share your concern.  With FWW you have the marketing arm in place, but no way to be financially compensated adequately.

   I have had the same problem in a different field – I also do Wedding Photography.  When I worked for a studio, I had jobs every week, but paltry compensation – and no photos to call my own; while the studio made a small fortune on my work.  I have chosen to go on my own, period.

   I hope you choose what is best for you.  I know this much, from being involved in discussions on other WW forums, that your name is known and respected.  Capitalize on that!  As far as the bench goes, my suggestion would be to make a DVD that includes PDF files.  Or you could hold live classes on machine adjustments or other topics.  Frank Klausz did/does it.  Heck, I have your book on its way to me now.

   An interesting side note:  I contacted FWW by phone, trying to find you, or a way to contact you.  They were a little hesitant, but finally said that you were not in their office able to answer phones; then agreed that you were perhaps available only to them as needed for specific project work.  Then I discovered Knots.  Let me put it this way:  I would seriously reconsider paying FWW for their site, if professionals and innovators like yourself, and specifically you, were not found there.

   Thomas Karlmann

   [email protected]