Built a small kitchen utensil box our of popular. the sides were seveal pieces of wood jointed and glued together. After construction, the joint lines were not visible, and even after priming the wood, the lines were still not there. After I spray painted it (enamel), and the paint dried, on two sides the joint lines could be seen. Any ideas? Not a big project, but I would like to know for the future. Thanks
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Replies
How long did you wait for the glue to cure? Did the glue have a chance to fully cure B4 priming? If not, I think that may be the problem.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Is the joint line a ridge (high on the line, but low on either side) or a step (high on one side of the line, low on the other)?
A ridge can be caused by absorption of moisture (or whatever solvent was in the finish). Using a shellac-based primer can minimize this problem, but even then you need to wait for the glue line to dry thoroughly before sanding and finishing.
A step is likely the result of different grain orientations in the wood on either side of the joint (on one side, the annual rings are nearly parallel to the surface of the board; on the other, they're nearly perpendicular). Because of this, the two boards don't expand and contract with humidity changes at the same rate. If this is the case, then the step will tend to come and go with the seasons. The only sure cure for this is to ensure that the grain orientations are approximately the same.
-Steve
Thanks for the reply. Actually, I'm not sure if it is a ridge or step as I'm at work right now, but it appeared to be fairly flat when I looked at it. I'll recheck tonight. The glue had probably been drying for 24 hours or so, which should be long enough. I used Titebond Original.
woodctr,
I called Titebond last year about this issue. They told me it could take up to 2 weeks of drying...moisture has been sucked into the wood from the glue too causing swelling. Usually, we plane or sand to early and when the wood shrinks/drys a line will show at the seam.
And if thats not enough, there's another issue to pay attention too, the grain pattern between pieces. If your wood is flat, rift or quarter swan it will expand and contract in differing amounts. Gluing a rift sawn to a flat sawn can cause ridges too.
thanks for the heads up on titebond original. I have titebond II & III, but just picked up the original and used it for joining the panels. Any recommendations for the future on joining panels.
thanks again.
Titebond original wood glue (pva) is notorious for this problem. It will swell in the joint, leaving a noticeable line. Your only line of defense against this is time. Wait, and re-scrape the glue joints and refinish the piece. Next time, don't use titebond original for visible glue joints. It's great for mortise/tenon, etc... where the glue bond is hidden.
Jeff
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