Hi everyone- I’m back with another “How should I do this?” type of question. It’s tough to describe without drawing it out, but I’ll do my best:
In an issue of FWW a couple months ago (someone varnishing a raised panel door on the cover), there was an article in the back about design considerations, and it talked about the “golden rectangle” or the 1.618 ratio. In that article, there’s a small drawing of a bookcase on top of a 2 door cabinet. It just so happens I’m building one (my first ever).
Here’s what I need to figure out- I want to know how to attach the bookcase part of it to the cabinet part of it, so that the bookcase above is sturdy once it’s filled with books and doesn’t topple off the base cabinet.
In the image in the magazine, it appears that the case above is only 3 sided- that is, it does not have a bottom. The top of the cabinet below serves as the bookcase bottom, much like an old-fashioned American china hutch. Is that stable enough? Would it be okay to use dowels to line up the case and cabinet?
I was thinking I would make the case above a 4-sided box, and use its bottom to attach to the top of the cabinet.
Am I making any sense at all here? Should I go home and scan in the image from the magazine so you know what I mean?
Thanks in advance for the help,
Kevin
Replies
Kevin, I've used the following method with good results:
Mark the center of the bottom edge of the vertical end pieces. Split the difference in the two sides of the center point and mark that. Then drill 5/16" holes centered on the outer marks and insert two 1/4" hardwood dowels.
Carefully measure the top or the cabinet and drill matching holes to accept the dowels. Drill a second and third hole on either side of first hole so that the original hole becomes elongated. Make sure this is in the same direction as the upright endpieces. Clean up the holes with a chisel.
Now set the upright portion into the top and adjust from front to rear until perfectly aligned. Once aligned, drill a hole up from beneath centered on the elongated holes and use a single cabinet screw (looks like a drywall screw only stronger) to secure the top piece to the base.
Essentially it is the same as securing breadboard ends in that you must allow the wood to expand and contract or it may split.
Steve - in Northern California
If you have the capability, try pocket screws on the top, or countersink some screws from the top of the lower cabinet through the upper. If the body of the upper is too narrow to get enough bite on the screws, try adding some screw blocks on the inside of the upper. I usually use dowels also.
Len (Len's Custom Woodworking)
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