My daughter asked me to build a small chest (about 20” X 28” X 18” or thereabouts) for the foot of her bed. However, she does NOT want to see any joinery (dovetails, finger joints etc) she simply wants to see a plain face on all sides.
I was going to use dovetails for joinery. What options do I have now? Can I use half blind dovetails for the bottom of the case and then use “lap” joints for the corners? I am afraid that if I don’t use something solid on the bottom the joints will not be strong enough. Dovetails will add strength but I am concerned that if I use dovetails on the chest bottom I may have problems with expansion etc. I was going to put the bottom in using dadoes, no glue which and allow it to float allowing for movement etc.
I obviously am a novice and any help is greatly appreciated.
Spitfire
Replies
Why not use a splined or biscuited miter joint on all four sides.They'll be plenty strong with no "visible" joint.You could also use a miter joint re-inforced with corner blocking from the inside.
If you're going to start cabinet construction,it'd be useful to pickup a book on joinery.
Thanks, I agree. I have a very basic book home.
What are your thoughts on the chest bottom.
I'd rabbet the bottom shelf(same as a dado,but say,3/4 up from the bottom).If you're using plywood,I wouldn't worry about expansion or contraction.If it's a solid wood bottom,don't glue it;rather let it float in place.Good luck.
Why not use A spline to attach it..with 45 degrees on each corner..
then for the bottom use a floating Panel with dados in it...
If you want I can show you with a drawing...
If nothing sticks to Teflon,how does Teflon Stick to metal. Huh
I have yet to try splines. I do have and used biscuits often but never tried bisuits for mitered joints. Time to learn and give it a go.
A drawaing is welcomed BUT it is a very busy time so please do so ONLY if easy for you.
Thanks for your advice and Happy Holidays to you.
Spitfire
Spitfire,
It is difficult to create long mitered corners and have them come out clean looking and strong. It can be done, of course, but you need to be meticulous at every stage of stock preparation, cutting, and glue up or you'll have gaps at the corners. It is also not a very strong joint because it primarily depends on end grain to end grain gluing for most of its strength.
I'd suggest using corner posts with raised panel sides, there are a dozen variations on the details of the joinery, but the design is sturdy, easy to build, and attractive. The face of the panels can be flat and recessed in the frames or the fields can be raised to be flush with the frames with just a small perimeter gap.
Don't expect anything you do with the bottom attachment to substantially reinforce the corners of the chest and you definitely need to design the piece to accomodate wood expansion and contraction.
John W.
Edited 12/19/2003 10:24:25 AM ET by JohnW
I recently built some pedestals for an art gallery. They did not want joinery showing so I settled on a "lock Miter" joint on the four sides. A lock miter router bit is about $50 but it needs a router table. You will also need enough clamps to clamp all the sides at the same time. The joints have held up for over a year with no problems. Because I did not float the tops I have a delema with some of the tops breaking away. So floating the bottom in a dado is the correct sollution.
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