Replies

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Apr 23, 2001 05:14pm | #1

   *
   Richard,

   Personally, I would use use mortise and tenon or floating tenon for the rails to stile joinery depending on whether the stick and cope profiles will be routed or applied. For the stile joinery at the corners, I would use splined miters. As to the authenticity of joinery for a Chippendale piece, I couldn't say if this is how he would have done it. FWIW.

   Dano

1. 
   Richard_Devine | Apr 25, 2001 04:48pm | #2

   *Dano:Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to go with mortise and tenons. Anyone else out there have any comments on period methods of joining front to side stiles 60" long?Thanks again. Richard

1. 
   Mike_Maines | Apr 25, 2001 11:58pm | #3

   *Richard, for a period piece you may want the inside edge of the rails and stiles molded. You can use a shaper or router, or a hand plane, or attach a molding seperately. If all one piece you might start by making the mortise and tenons, then mold the edge, then miter the molding to make the joint fit tightly. Which way you go really depends on your tools, you skills, and how authentic you want to be. Mike

1. 
   Richard_Devine | Apr 26, 2001 02:30pm | #4

   *Thanks, Mike for the advice. I did rout a rabbet on the back inside edge of the front and sides to hold the glass and I will add molding on the front side of the glass. The back was routed just the opposite. The decorative molding was routed on the front face of the back stiles because that face will be seen from the front. Mirror will be added there. Should the side stiles be mortise and tennoned into the front and rear stiles or is there another method that would have been used? Also, do you have any thoughts on the type and thickness of glass and mirror that should be used for the front and fixed side. One side will open, so the glass on the side will act as a door. What kind of glass there? Also, what kind for the shelves?Thanks again. Rich

1. 
   rob.kelly | Apr 27, 2001 03:59am | #5

   *Rich, see the Frame and Panel design post a little further down. Much of it applies to your Qs.

2. 
   Richard_Devine | Apr 30, 2001 03:34pm | #6

   *What's the advantage to the mortise and tenon over the tongue and groove... or the floating tenon? If there is.

3. 
   Mike_Maines | May 01, 2001 03:58am | #7

   *Mortise and tenon implies more surface area than tongue and groove, though they're basically the same concept. More surface area = more strength. Floating tenons can be easier/faster to make with the right setup, but as a recent FWW article found, there is some compromise in strength. My own rule of thumb is for plywood or mdf panels, use a deep groove, tongue, and glue in the panel; for solid panels, mortise and tenon and let the panel float (but pin the center so movement occurs evently). Mike

4. 
   Richard_Devine | May 02, 2001 04:03am | #8

   *Thanks for all the good advice. My gut instinct said M & T joints for joining the front and side stiles and that seems to be the concensus. Appreciate all the input.Richard