Hi,
I’ve been a serious woodworker for 10 years… I have recently experienced a problem that I don’t understand…
While face joining stock…over a 6″ width, the resulting effort yields a board more narrow on one side…it’s consistent… (Not the difference, but the result). In the worse case, I actually end up with a crown of sorts in the center!!(the board rocks from side to side)
I checked the outboard table and found it was .008-.010 out of parallel with the feed table!
I might have done something to the feed table, as recently I unwittingly tried forcing it past the built-in stop, which limits joining depth to .125″ – I thought the wheel was hard to turn from sawdust buildup. (I discovered the limitation, which I had forgotten) when reviewing the manual to adjust the table)
After disengaging the stop, I turned the height adjustment back to something like a 32nd, and the table became parallel, but when I moved the height again (not even close to the .125 limit), the table went out!
Any insight into adjustment or replacement parts would be very helpful.
The Joiner is a cabinet model 6″ Jet, which has served me very well for 10 years.
Replies
Steve,
Because the jointer is accurate when its infeed table is at one location and inacurate at another, it may be that the ramps are getting worn slightly and may need to be remachined. Another possibility which you may wish to check on first, is that some grit has fouled up the ramps in one area, causing things to go out of whack. That it's causing cupping in that one location is somewhat mystifying, however. Perhaps some grit is lodged in the area where the infeed table hold-down bolt(s) slide, causing extra pressure on the castings when it begins to bind. I's recommend you start first by disassembling the infeed table, cleaning away any old grease and residue from everything, then after a light lubing with dry spray lube, reassemble. Don't tighten everything down overly; the manufucturer may be able to provide recommended torque settings for you to follow.
These problems can be difficult to diagnose. Good luck and let us know how it comes out.
Marty S
martyswoodwokring.ca
Edited 3/27/2008 6:56 pm ET by Planearound
Edited 3/27/2008 7:02 pm ET by Planearound
Thanks..I never had a reason to disassemble the table, so i thought I would post before tearing down (the stuff is heavy!)
Also...as a point of clarification.... it's not a "cup". it's actually a chamfer: the infeed table is not parallel to the cutter blades (which are set to the parallel the outfeed table), so when a cut is made, the board rocks on the outfeed table, and this actually put alternating flat spots on each "side" of the surface.. the result is the board rocks when placed on a flat surface... very noticable on longish (5-8ft long) boards. On shorter boards, the result is more like an uneven planed width.
Steve, Thanks for the clarification, as I now understand that your tables aren't parallel to one another. If your measurements are being made using a truly straight straightedge, such as one of these from Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=56676&cat=1,240,45313) and a set of feeler gauges and they're showing that the tables aren't parallel, then you've got to address that problem. That it's giving you a different reading at various settings of the infeed table is indicating to me that the infeed table's ramps aren't true throughout their range of motion. Again, before resorting to something as drastic as having them remachined, I'd still first recommend dismantling, cleaning, relubing then reassembly. If after all that you're still showing the tables being out of parallel - again, using a known accurate straightedge and feeler gauges - then you've got to isolate and correct the problem. Before having a machinist do so, you should get an estimate from them, as it's possible it'll cost more to do so than your machine is worth. Again, that your machine was accurate for so many years then went out of whack is intriguing to me. Good luck.Marty S
I'll be dismantling this week... and I'll report back...FYI...I use a dial indicator and magnetic base to make the measurement.
The more I read about jointers, the more I am glad that I bought a parallelogram bed model.Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Chris, the probability of failure of any machine, is an exponential function of the number of moving parts.
Your parallelogram model has more moving pieces. Admittedly, your parallelogram model may have more adjustments.
The old inclined ramps are pretty durable.
In geometry, a parallelogram is a quadrilateral with two sets of parallel sides. The opposite sides of a parallelogram are of equal length, and the opposite angles of a parallelogram are congruent. The three-dimensional counterpart of a parallelogram is a parallelepiped. The parallelogram must have 2 of the same size acute angles and 2 of the same size obtuse angles.WHAT?
Will,
Does that mean that opposite sides are parallel to each other?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I, also, have a 6" jet jointer that is about twelve years old. Recently it began have the same problem. When I joint the edge of the board, it becomes bowed lengthwise. I will check the parrellism of the infeed and outfeed tables.
Dan
That's a different problem--a lengthwise bow can be caused simply by having the outfeed table a tad too high with respect to the cutterhead.
-Steve
"Does that mean that opposite sides of a (parallelogram) are parallel to each other?"
Yes, it does - hence the name. One thing not mentioned is that a square is a rectangle is a parallelogram is trapezoid is a quadrilateral. You cannot reverse the order. In other words a parallelogram may have all angles equal to 90° and all sides may also be equal.
Ahh shucks,
I was just takin a poke at the old duffer out there in Chicago. Word has it that he knows how to make one o them parallelygrams into a circle.
:>)
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
It amazing what they can do in this day and age.
I was just takin a poke at the old duffer out there in Chicago.
I never responded because I did not have an intelligent answer like Tinkerer had!
Steve,
It may be the gibs (underside on base of in-feed incline). If you moved it recently or on a roll around base, or if you "steer it" with the in-feed table when moving, a good bump plus the vibration from the belts is all it takes to loosen the gibs. The gibs set the parallel of the incline to the base and also adjust the X axis (chamfer). Usually set at factory and painted over. Quick fix if it's the problem.
The location and access is probably in your manual.
Just a thought.
John
I didn't know about the Gibs...this will help me with the disassembly later this week...I think a wrecked the setup trying to force the table beyond the limit stop.
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