Bought a Jet SuperSaw JWSS-10LFR from
a scratch and dent re-seller which also
deals in discontinued models. Anyway…
the fence that came with the saw works OK
but the locking handle will not fold down
very far when it locks. Shouldn’t it
fold all the way down when it locks the fence?
I looked in the owners manual for an adjustment,
but did not see one. There are 4 hex head
bolts on the top of the fence, but I don’t
think they are for adjusting the locking
handle.
Any help is appreciated!
Jim
Replies
I have the same saw. It's a good saw, not a great saw. The issue with the fence locking mechanism is one you will encounter from time to time unless you fix it. There's a couple of things you can do.
1. Loosen the handle a little; it shouldn't be cranked down very tight -- gently snugged is plenty, maybe even too much. Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.
2. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean, clear of sawdust and pitch. Also, make sure they are burr free.
3. There's a flat on the cam which engages the wedge that locks the fence to the rails. Hit that a few times with some coarse grit sandpaper to make the flat area a little more pronounced. Easy here with this one, you don't want to radically alter the dimensions, just flatten a touch more. Give it a few strokes, try it, give it a few strokes more, try it again until you're happy with how it engages.
♫ If you’re OCD and you know it wash your hands ♫
Edited 9/2/2009 12:40 am ET by pzaxtl
Jim,
Is the fence squareness adjusted by two small set screws in the tee part that bear against the inside face of the rail tubing?
John White
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2007
Hey John:The bolts you mention are actually 4 hex head bolts
located at the front of the fence and according to
page 12 of the users manual...they are for aligning
the fence to the miter slot. I've checked the fence
and it aligns perfectly with the miter slot.I was really more concerned with the locking handle
on the front of the fence. I was thinking that it
should fold down more when it locks. However...
forestgirl seems to think that is not necessary.
I'm new to jet table saws, so I'll yield to her
experience.Thanks to all who replied with suggestions.Jim
I just re-read your message. You were talking about
2 set screws on the under side of the front of the fence?
I haven't seen these screws, but I'll take the fence off
when I get home tonight and have a look. However...as I said
earlier...alignment is not my problem. Maybe I'm being paranoid
about this and its really not a problem. The fence does lock in
place nicely.Jim
"The fence does lock in place nicely." That might be all that counts, but just in case.....is it an Exacta Fence? Here's the manual <click>. Shows 3 basic positions for the handle. Or is it another Jet model fence?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Thanks for the reply. Mine is the Jet fence.
See image below.Jim
Ahhhh, looks more like the fence on my contractor Jet than it does the Exacta. I couldn't find a parts diagram for it, but I'll bet a smoked salmon that the handle is not meant to push all the way down for locking. Just push until it feel firm, that should do it. My concern is that if you push it too far very often, it's going to damage the mechanism.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Turned the fence over and had a look at the underside.
See image below. Found 4 screws that may control
the locking mechanism. Don't know. Anybody
have any experience with this?Jim
Jim, the eccentric nature of the locking mechanism is your answer! You only push it far enough to be snug, then stop. If you push it beyond that point, it will either jam, or go past the widest point and get loose again.
Is there some reason it really bugs you to have the handle less that perpendicular to the floor? It's simply the nature of the beast, IMHO.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I have the same saw and the handle on my fence slopes downward toward the floor quite a bit, as on other saws. This particular fence design has a peculiarity in that, sometimes, the locking mechanism doesn't fully engage as it should when the handle is moved into a locking position. In other words, the handle doesn't depress completely, so that the fence isn't fully locked in position. A little force directed toward the fence will cause it to move. In fact, the handle will "pop" back up leaving the fence free to move. It's a pain in the patoot, but I remedied mine using the steps I outlined previously.
♫ If you’re OCD and you know it wash your hands ♫
Edited 9/6/2009 3:00 am ET by pzaxtl
OK...one more and I'll shutup. Is there a good
alternative fence for this saw? Anybody have any
experience with an aftermarket fence system?
What fence came with your saw? Mine came with the Xacta fence and it's great!
John -Those two set screws adjust the fence parallel to the blade. They're a bit of a PITA since you have to remove the fence to make an adjustment, then reinstall it to check the fence. I'm planning on cutting down the short leg of an allen wrench so I can make adjustments with the fence in place.There are two plastic (teflon?) set screws on top of the Tee that adjust the fence perpendicular to the table.
Dave,Somebody beat me to it with this info, but if you back out both of those screws equally you will change the point at which the fence handle locks. After you get the handle to lock in the position you want, check the fence for still being square and adjust as needed. There isn't much need to cut down a wrench, the adjustment only takes a couple of minutes.John White
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2007
John -The set screws on my fence move padded "tabs" which are what actually rubs on the fence rail. Backing them out wouldn't move the fence much at all from front to back.When I got the saw in late June, the fence was almost dead-on with the screws out and it took tightening one ~1/4 turn more than the other to nail the alignment perfectly.The last picture shows my fence handle in the "down and locked" position.
Yup, those two screws behind the tabs, when run in and out, will change the point at which the handle locks. A small change in the screws will make quite a difference in the locking point of the handle. If the handle is still too high with the screws backed off as far as possible, I like the handle down 45 degrees when locked, then the fence, or the bar is off spec a little bit. The probable fix for that would be to file a bit off the face of the rectangular block that the cam bears against.John W.
Bingo!
Gee, isn't that what I said, like 20 posts ago. Oh, well... Sooner or later someone else was bound to suggest that. I just figured that since I've had the same saw for 6 years now, I know a little something about it and how fix that anomoly with the fence locking mechanism. :)
♫ If you’re OCD and you know it wash your hands ♫
Actually I suggested that he should adjust the alignment screws first, which has always solved the problem on the 100 or so saws I have set up. I only suggested removing metal from the block as a last resort.John W.
"Shouldn't it fold all the way down when it locks the fence?" Not necessarily. Don't remember about my old Jet contractor's fence, but I know when I got the Unisaw (1970's vintage), I was way overtightening the fence handle. Got set straight by someone here at Knots, which no doubt will save wear on the mechanism. Snug is good.
I have that saw with the Xacta fence, and my locking handle is plenty tight when it sticks almost straight out from the fence. I think that there may be an adjustment, but I'm happy with it as-is.
A couple of weeks ago, I had to stop my SIL from trying to force it too tight. - lol
The fence set screws are too far forward. Back them off all the way and reset the fence parallel to the blade. When they are set too deep, they restrict the movement of the fence lock. If they are not deep enough they will not not engage the fence when you try to lock them down.
I have an ICS sawstop but my dad has the same saw you do. I fixed his in just a few minutes.
See fg's post. The adjustment I mentioned is fig. 16 (e).
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