Hey guys and gals, it’s me again. I have fried the motor on my 12″ Jet bandsaw. I was resawing some pine and the motor gave out a little sound like a light bulb when it blows, then a little puff of smoke came up and now it just hums when I turn it on. What have I done? Can it be fixed? Do I need a new and larger rated motor?
Thanks,
Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
Replies
1. What is the model #
2. Was it loaded to the point of slowing the motor down while you were resawing?
3. Did it stop running after the smoke puff or did you shut it off?
4. Remove the blade and try spinning the lower wheel to see if the motor will start with help.
5. Was the noise it made similar to the click the motor makes when it's slowing down after shutoff?
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.
~ Denis Diderot
1. What is the model # Model No. is JWBS-120S
2. Was it loaded to the point of slowing the motor down while you were resawing? Yes
3. Did it stop running after the smoke puff or did you shut it off? It stopped running on its own.
4. Remove the blade and try spinning the lower wheel to see if the motor will start with help. No.
5. Was the noise it made similar to the click the motor makes when it's slowing down after shutoff? No.Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
On the side of the motor is a semi-cylindrical hump covering the capacitor. Remove the cover and check the capacitor and the two wires going to it, check for signs of smoke or rupture on the capacitor and bad connections or burnt wires. Look at the inside of the capacitor cover for signs of smoke and give it a good sniff.
Were you able to give the wheel a pretty good spin and did it seem like it wanted to run?
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
Also on the motor is a juction box for the wiring, pull the cover off it too and have a look at all of the connections.
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
Harry, that cracked me up. The first time I read your post:"4. Remove the blade and try spinning the lower wheel to see if the motor will start with help. No."I read your answer as "No. YOU remove the blade and spin the wheel!"Then I realized you were answering the implied question, but when I read it as a refusal, I laughed.
harry,I had the same reaction as jammersix, and your reply DID read humorously.Because the motor still hums when you turn the machine on, I think you have a SHORTED capacitor and possibly a fused throw-out switch in the start-up circuitry. (easily and inexpensively replaceable).If you can locate those components, disconnect them. Then try the technique of spinning the lower wheel just prior to applying power. If the motor seems to try to spin up, or if it actually comes up to speed, you've got your answer.Rich
Caps can make that sound when they blow.
Sounds like it could be the capacitor. Easily replaceable at Grainger. Just need to know if it is a run or start capacitor. My guess is it's a run capacitor.
I smoked my motor a few weeks ago. Just burned it up. I took the motor apart and everything that wasn't metal had been cooked to a crisp.
Luckily still under warranty and Jet sent a new motor. I don't use band saws a lot, or for that matter a lot of different band saws, but even with my limited experience, I would never buy a Jet band saw again, at least not one of the smaller ones.
Good luck.
kh
Yeah, this is the only real bandsaw I've ever owned and I've not been real happy with it.Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
Okay, lets be fair to the Jet brand. Trying to resaw with that size band saw is like refinishing your hardwood floors with a hand sander. It is ridiculous to blame the tool.
A 12", 1/2 HP saw was not designed to do resaw work. I can't tell what kind of blade was used... I'm guessing that you used the stock blade or one that has a high tooth-per-inch count (TPI).
For my own resaw work, I use a 1", 3 TPI blade. For curved work, I use a 1/4", 10 or 12 TPI blade. Your saw likely has a 1/4" 10 or 12 TPI blade - which, for your HP, is too small and has too many teeth...
There is a reason they don't race yugos in NASCAR.
TTFN,
T
Edited 2/24/2009 5:50 pm ET by Tbagn
Yeah, I know it's not the optimal resaw machine, but it's all I got. I don't do a lot of resawing. I was using a Timberwolfe 3/4" 3TPI blade. It was what was recommended by a lot of folks on this board a couple months back, and I must admit...it was doing a pretty good job of resawing 2X6 pine until a got the motor too hot and blew the cap.
Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
Hey guys and gals, I'm sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner...been sick and in the hospital again.
Anyway, thanks for all the good advice. I took the blade off and spun the wheel as I pushed the start switch and the motor took off like a, well, jet.
I took the cover of the capacitor and gave it a smell and turned up my nose. I went and bought a new capacitor for $7.72 at a local appliance parts store, but I have not gotten it installed yet.
Now I have another problem. I thought I would have to take the motor off the saw and take it to a shop to be tested. To remove the motor you have to remove the wheel to get to some of the screws holding the motor on. Well, guess what...I didn't realize the bolt holding the wheel on was left handed threads and I cranked down on it and broke it off. Turns out I didn't have to remove the wheel or the motor. Anybody know where I can find a new left handed bolt to fit it? No luck locally. If it weren't for my bad luck I'd have no luck at all.
Thanks,Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
These folks have got it.
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
Getting a new left handed machine screw will likely be a lot easier than getting the old one out. If it's a decent diameter you should be able to bore and tap a hole in it, then turn it out with a new machine screw fitted to the hole.Once that's fixed, check if the motor works with the new cap. If so, get a 3/8X4TPI thin kerf band or a 1/2"X3TPI thin kerf band. The latter is what I use for resaws on my 20" band saw. Your saw has no overload protection so if the band twists or the motor bogs, you have to back off to avoid cooking the motor.Pete
Thanks, yes I have tried the motor with the new cap and it works like a charm. And thanks for the tips on getting the old screw out and using the thin kerf blades.
Thanks,Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
One other thing Harry,In my experience, BS motors work much better if they're getting really clean electricity. By that I mean no extension cord, and as close to the outlet as possible. I don't know if you're using one, but an extension cord can really rob a smaller motor of power. One other thing to try.David B
Yeah, thanks David, I knew that already and have it plugged directly into a outlet.
Thanks,Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
Just checkin'David B
A 3/4" blade on a 12" 1/2 HP band saw? Exactly who recommended that?
I"m just curious. I'd really like to see that recommendation.
(Every 12" band saw I've seen states clearly that you shouldn't use more than a 1/2" blade on it. I'm not even sure that I could get a 3/4" blade to seat reasonably on my band saw tires.)
OK, I stand corrected...and severely accosted...it is a 1/2
Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
Edited 3/6/2009 11:47 am by harrycu
I think I can point you to a FWW article about tuning 14" saws that opined that the 1/3 hp motor was fine, but if you had to riser so you could resaw 12", you would be better off jumping to the 1/2 hp. motor.
That little tidbit said, I agree that the 3/4" blade is likely too wide for the 12" saw (probably too wide for my 14 " Delta. I use the 1/2" for the little resawing I do.
Steve, you misunderstand my post. I never said it couldn't be done. I should also mention that I have nothing to do with Jet Tools or the WMH tool Group.
Allow me to recap this topic:
harrycu - "...What have I done? Can it be fixed? Do I need a new and larger rated motor?..."
harrycu - "...Was it loaded to the point of slowing the motor down while you were resawing? Yes..."
fourquarter - "...I don't use band saws a lot, or for that matter a lot of different band saws, but even with my limited experience, I would never buy a Jet band saw again, at least not one of the smaller ones..."
harrycu - "...Yeah, this is the only real bandsaw I've ever owned and I've not been real happy with it..."
Tbagn - "...Okay, lets be fair to the Jet brand. Trying to resaw with that size band saw is like refinishing your hardwood floors with a hand sander. It is ridiculous to blame the tool..."
harrycu - "......it was doing a pretty good job of resawing 2X6 pine until a got the motor too hot and blew the cap..."
Okay, maybe "ridiculous" is a strong word... but is it fair to blame the tool? Heck, I can cut curves with a 1" band saw blade... but would it be fair to blame Timberwolfe if I broke the blade cutting a 1/4" radius? No, its not.
Heck, I remember seeing an episode of Wood Works where David Marks resawed a walnut board with a circular saw. Obviously a circular saw isn't designed to do resaw work... but it can be done - as long as proper care is taken. harrycu simply overworked a tool; performing an operation that the tool was not designed to do. As a result of over-working the tool, it failed.
I also want to add something to your post. If you jump to a larger BS motor, you should also change out your pulleys so they can maintain the proper blade speed (FWW http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=2452).
Here is a link to a FWW article by Michael Fortune from a few years back.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDF/011173066.pdf
That's where he says a 1/2 hp. should be enough for resawing with the 14" with risers bandsaws. I'm certainly not saying that 1/2 hp. is an ample band saw motor.
I just think the message is not so much at a 1/2 hp. motor is absolutely inadequate, but that with such a low powered motor, serious patience would be called for. With that patience and a good sharp blade a 6" pine board ought to be OK, assuming the feed is slow, even, and the board well enough managed that the blade never gets into a twist situation. That is the key--if the motor labors you must slow the feed. Instantly. It's not the motor but the operator that is faltering when the motor labors or slows. I must admit to lack of patience on occasion, but fortunately on my bandsaw, the motor protection just kicks in, it shuts down, not to restart until it has both cooled down, and the red button is firmly pushed. That's the better way of "protesting" an over eager operator, not letting the smoke out.
More HP would certainly be nice, and make the job less slow and tedious. Given the modest price step up these days for more power, a 1 1/2 hp. bandsaw is likely a good idea, and going up to the 14" standard probably adds enough beef to handle more motor power gracefully.
Harry; were you able to get that left hand bolt?
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.
~ Denis Diderot
No, not yet, dgreen. I found one on the internet at BoltsToGo.com, but they wanted $15.00 bucks for it plus shipping. I still have a couple places locally to look.
Thanks,Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
Did you try the link I posted? They only wanted $1.48.
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Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of the last priest.~ Denis Diderot
I thought that was the link I looked at that wanted $14.80
Thanks,Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
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