Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 15, 2005 05:48am | #1

   Darn!  On my old computer I had a really good japanning site bookmarked, but can't find the file here.  I did find, however, a pretty good resource here.  Not super-well-organized, but if you make it down the whole page, I think you'll find some good stuff.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

   
   

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   Edited 10/14/2005 10:50 pm by forestgirl

1. 
   rog | Oct 15, 2005 04:52pm | #5

   Thanks Everyone

   I now have a few recipes to sart with and it doesn't look like it will cost a fortune.

   I bought this old #8 a few weeks ago and the whole body was covered with what I thought was blace rust. I scrubbed it with varsol and a very fine sandpaper and after lots of work it disappeared and left what looks like a regular patina.

   The Cap iron also cleaned up pretty well.

   However the blade and chip breaker are toast. Rusted very badly.

   So I am looking for a replacement blade, chip breaker and also a tote as the horn is broken.

   Have been looking on e-bay with no success as yet.

   Any suggestions

   Thanks

   Roger

2. 
   jackiechan | Oct 15, 2005 07:49am | #2

   Rog',

   Here's a link to a web site that describes the Japanning formula and application process.

   http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=handtools&file=articles_117.shtml

   If your Stanley #8 will be a daily user, and you are not concerned about possibly effecting its market value - There is an easier way to restore the japanning finish.  I collect Millers Falls Type 1 (1929-1940) and Type 2 (1940-1950) planes, with an occasional Type 3 (1950-1955) thrown in.  I restore these planes through electrolysis for rust and metal clean up, and recoating the japanned surfaces.  After stripping down the plane, I apply 6-8 coats of and industrial machinery enamel with a high alkyd resin content.  This provides tremendous durability and resiliency with a deep lustrous shine. 

   I've found that Rustoleum Industrial Professional spray works the best.  It has a very high alkyd resin content, and is able to take the hard daily use that I give it with aplomb.  The key is to apply multiple thin coats, allowing each coat to dry for at least 24 hours.  Once the final coat is on - let the tool sit for a few days while the enamel hardens completely. 

   Here is a before and after photo of a Millers Falls #14 (equiv. to Stanley #5), that was recoated using the Rustoleum Industrial Professional spray mentioned above.

   See the next posting for the before and after photos.

    

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

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   Edited 10/15/2005 12:51 am ET by jackiechan

   
   

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   Edited 10/15/2005 12:52 am ET by jackiechan

   
1. 
   EdHarrison | Oct 16, 2005 04:51pm | #11

   Dan, I've got a passel of those Millers Falls planes (types 2 and 3 - I've never seen a type 1, I don't think. )  They are good value for someone learning how to fettle a plane and getting a good, solid user.  For some reason, and I can't put my finger on it exactly, I really like the steel that they used for their irons.  It just sharpens easily and reliably.  It's probably a combination of the characteristics of the steel and my own sharpening techniques or idiosyncracies.

   Good job on the restoration, looks nice.  I've got a virtually brand new type 2 no. 14 that I believe was in a box in a ship's repair locker until the ship was decommissioned and never used during that time.  It almost seemed a shame to start using it, but I did.  And one other thing about Millers Falls - there's a No. 209 covered with grime and disguised as a normal tool out there in the tool dealer world trying to find me, I just know it.  Someday I will find it and buy it for an incredibly low price.  Take care, Ed

    

3. 
   jackiechan | Oct 15, 2005 07:54am | #3

   The before and after photo of the restored Miller Falls No.14

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

   
1. 
   twilliams1223 | Oct 15, 2005 03:29pm | #4

   Sort of OT. Dan, do you have a resourse for totes. I have a Type 2 #18c in process that needs some new/old wood?Thanks
   TomTom

    

    

1. 
   jackiechan | Oct 15, 2005 05:01pm | #6

   Tom,

   I fabricate my own totes so that I can shape them to fit my hand.  If you're looking to buy one, Mike in Katy, TX - PlaneWood here on the forum, has a business restoring planes, including making knobs and totes.  He does beautiful work.  It's fairly straight forward to make your own.  If you want the process, please feel free to ask.

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

   Edited 10/15/2005 12:37 pm ET by jackiechan

2. 
   forestgirl | Oct 15, 2005 08:03pm | #7

   Forestgirl's new DSL comes to the rescue:forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

   
1. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 16, 2005 01:36am | #9

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   BUT FASTER with DSL?

4. 
   WillGeorge | Oct 16, 2005 01:35am | #8

   I don't know... I'd get some Lacquer and dye it Black!

5. 
   dirtstirrer | Oct 16, 2005 04:31pm | #10

   Best way I know is to send it to Planewood.

    

   Steve