Replies

1. 
   saschafer | May 30, 2009 04:31am | #1

   I don't understand the "jumping between setups" problem with the crosscut sled. I'd first cut all of the drawers a bit on the long side (maybe +1/4" or so), do whatever else I needed to do, and then at some later time cut them all to precise length, one right after the other, in a single setup.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   forestgirl | May 30, 2009 04:31am | #2

   It sounds like you are aware that the general rule, especially for through cuts, is to never use the fence in conjunction with the miter gauge.  Personally, I'd look for another way to accompish your task.  Those 27" fronts are a challenge.  There's a super-crosscut sled discussed here on the boards, I'll try and find a link.  In the meantime, perhaps someone else will provide some other tips.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | May 30, 2009 04:38am | #3

   forestgirl,

   Is it this one? http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=42192.1  Ultimate Crosscut Sled.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

3. 
   hammer1 | May 30, 2009 04:51am | #4

   I'm very leery of using the rip fence as a stop for narrower pieces. I don't even like using a block on the fence, like you see in so many books, along with the miter bar. There is too much chance of the work piece getting sideways. If it doesn't come back and whack you, it will, at least, ruin the cut. Is there a reason why you don't just use the sled for everything? You can always square one end and add a long enough fence to the sled so you can clamp on a stop. I think a sled that has 24" crosscut capacity is pretty handy to have. If I didn't have one, I'd take the time to make one. If you have 24" high drawers (wow) you'll need to cut sides and backs, too. I'm in the middle of an 18 drawer job, there are a lot of parts! It sure would take a lot of extra work if you can't cut them correctly the first time.

   PS. I just realized that "sled" means different things to folks. Mine has two bars that ride in both miterways, something like David Marks sled, nice and wide as well as deep, not only on one side of the blade.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/29/2009 9:58 pm ET by hammer1

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | May 30, 2009 05:07am | #5

   First.. don't use the fence alone as a stop. If you do.. I will bet my life savings you are going to get a kickback. But... you can use the fence and clamp a short block of wood on it for a stop block. Make sure the wood has been surfaced and not rough so the end of the actual stock will slide. If you have a piece of UHMW.. that is slick also.

   But.. the thickness of the short stop block will put the fence it is clamped to back away from the blade. And.. the stop block must be clamped a few inches in front of the forward most teeth. I use a stop block on the end of my long miter fence to get repeatable same lengths. Using one on the fence is the same principle and I don't consider it un-safe as the stock being cut has cleared the block before it reaches the blade. It is only used to get repeatable lengths. You have to measure from tooth side on fence to the block and then lock the fence in.

   Again.. if you go this route... make absolutely sure the stop block clamped to the fence is in front of the teeth. I would set it back at least 4" and probably 6" if I used one.

   Good luck. And.. the only way you are going to repeat exact length cuts is to use a stop block of some nature. Be it on the left end of miter fence as I do.. on the TS fence as mentioned or on a sled.

   Sarge..

   Edited 5/29/2009 10:08 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47

1. 
   non trad stu | May 30, 2009 05:29am | #6

   Thank you everybody.  Another confirmation of the old adage "if it feels unsafe it probably is".  Looks like I'll be rigging a changeable stop block on my sled.  The guide block on the TS fence in front of the blade I'm familiar with but again when it comes to the 24"+ heights I'd have to switch to the fence itself.  Thanks again.

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | May 30, 2009 07:17am | #7

   Have you considered making a sacrificial fence for your miter gauge? I have an Incra telescoping that goes to 49". I also made a sacrificial I can screw onto the gauge that will handle 62" I have to use it with a stop for some 58" frame pieces tomorrow. Doesn't take long to make one really.

   Good luck...

   Sarge..

1. 
   non trad stu | May 30, 2009 04:05pm | #8

   What I was trying to do was to set the TS fence up the correct disance from the blade for any given width of panel and use it for all panels of that width regrdless of height (height being the front to back travel dimension along the fence)  So are you saying that with a sacraficial fence on the miter gauge I can have it riding against the TS fence?

2. 
   BG | May 30, 2009 05:08pm | #9

   non trad stu,Just a couple of comments: are these drawer fronts going to be fitted to the opening or have a lip? If fitted, you may need to do them one at a time because your carcass may not be square. Also, remember if your off a bit, say 1/16", your eye won't detect it.I would normally use a cross cut sled for the task your doing, but I also have used the miter to the right, the fence, etc. While it's a bit risky, I keep two hands on the wood at all times and can shut it down if it begins to twist. Your dimensions, however, do not lend themselves well to options. Cutting a 12x27" drawer front is difficult to fit on the table saw in front of the blade using a miter and a board that big an heavy could cause the miter to whip a bit. Many would prefer to use another tool to make the cut, including a circular saw. I think the cross cut sled will work.

   Edited 5/30/2009 10:21 am ET by BG

3. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | May 30, 2009 06:08pm | #10

   No.. definitely not as to letting the stock ride the fence all the way. First.. in haste I did not catch the widths you are using. So.. disregard what I said in this case and go with the sled. And I would heed BG's suggestion unless you know for a fact your opening are going to be dead on. In 38 years I don't believe I have hit dead on more than two or three times. :>)

   Good luck.. use the sled

   Sarge..

4. 
   DustyGeorge | May 30, 2009 06:29pm | #11

   Stu,

   As Hammer1 pointed out, a sled that will handle widths of 24" plus is very handy.  It is also very easy to make.  I have attached a picture of mine.  The basic difference between a panel cutting sled and a typical sled is that the fence is on the leading edge rather the trailing edge of the sled.  This allows for an adequate engagement of the runner before the stock gets to the blade.

   Regards, George

   You don't stop laughing because you grow old.  You grow old because you stop laughing. - Michael Pritchard

   
1. 
   non trad stu | May 31, 2009 10:43pm | #12

   Thank you for that.  Must make one.  Meantime am progressing nicely using my conventional  sled, just fussy and time consuming.

5. 
   paulski | May 31, 2009 11:12pm | #13

   Paul here. I would use a block on the rip fence, but set it well back from the front edge of the blade. Position the board you are cutting on your cross cut fence slide it sideways to your block. Move the crosscut fence towards the blade clearing your stop block. You should have a min clearance of at least 1" from the fence. Your piece will cut off at the right length and be free of the spinning blade. If you cut all your drawer faces this way, they will all be equal. You can contact me at [email protected] if you need more advice.

   regards Paul

1. 
   geedubbee | Jun 04, 2009 11:07pm | #14

   Paul's got it. This is the safe way for repeated crosscuts of this type ;-)