I have a chance to pick up a Delta Deluxe 6-inch jointer with 1-hp motor and open stand. It is a model 37-133. for $225.
I am not familiar with this one and not sure if this a snap it up or pass it by deal.
Anyone use or know anything about this one? any help would be appreciated.
I did a Google on delta jointer 37-133 and got zero results.
Thanks to all.
1 – measure the board twice, 2 – cut it once, 3 – measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 – get a new board and go back to step 1
Edited 7/27/2005 10:27 am ET by Rick503
Replies
Rick ,
If you need a jointer ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, JUMP ON IT ! Usually in general , about half as much as new sometimes a little more or less is a guideline for pricing used goods . As long as it is in good working order , try it out bring a piece of wood .
happy jointing dusty
Don't think twice, grab it.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Its a decient price, not a screaming deal. You can get a compairable machine new for under $400. If you are looking to buy a jointer now and the knives on this one are good, you can't loose.
Mike
While I agree that it's a good price for a Delta 6" jointer, t'were I you I sure like to know why it's for sale, and make darned sure there is any twist or warp in the tables or fence.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
He moved up to an 8" one1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Turns out this is model 37-190. I see there have been a number of issues with the screws and adjustments on this model and that Delta no longer makes it and the replacement JT360 is only about $390 new. For that price I can also get the Grizzly G1182HW 6" jointer - Help!! I am in mental gridlock now.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Rick,
That was exactly mty my point. 6" jointers in that price range are almost the VCRs and DVD players of the ww'ing machinery world. What I mean is that a new one is so inexpensive that buying a used one isn't worth the potiential trouble of replacing blades and dealing with any potiential wear or damage. So you might save $100 to $200 bucks, after you spand $35 on knives and a day replacing them was the savings worth it? Depends on your financial situation. I am by no means rolling in the dough but I really don't like messing with machines to get them to work right. My time is valuable.
Here is another BIG point. Look at getting an 8" machine. You can get a cheep one for 600 or so. Here is a good model with a longer table and magnetic switch :http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000DD0AO/qid=1122491857/sr=8-14/ref=pd_bbs_sbs_14/104-2999970-6691126?v=glance&s=hi&n=507846
Grizzly has a couple of models cheeper than that as well.
I know 2" dosn't sound like a very big difference. But, like someone told me there is a lot of 7" lumber out there. It is a shame to have to rip a perfectly good board so it will fit on your jointer. Of course cash is king.
Mikeplease excuse my spelling.
If I could afford it, I would go new and would go 8". My pocketbook is SEVERLY limited at this time (buying a new house and all that entails) It is not the 2" of width that makes the differance, it is the extra 28"+ of bed length that is important. I truley believe that if they made a 6" jointer with a 65" bed length they would have a market. Unless of course, the cost of making it 8" from 6" in width is minimal when compared to the length (why pay $50 less for a 6" than an 8").1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
If it is severely limited then offer the guy 180 or 200. If you feel that it is the best deal you will see in the near future, buy it at the asking cost.
Mikeplease excuse my spelling.
> I truley believe that if they made a 6" jointer with a 65" bed length they would have a market. hi rick, actually powermatic does make a 6" jointer with a 66" bed (PM-1791279K). i understand that it's an excellent tool. i looked at it long and hard, but finally caved on the x-series delta (quite a bit cheaper after the rebates and free mobile base). i want to upgrade to an 8" as well, but that won't happen for awhile...
cheers,
bert
if it's worth doing at all, then it's worth doing well.
Yes I know, but look at the price and compare that to 8" jointers - they are close.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Hmmmmm, in pain are you?? Sorry for laughing! I've seen the Grizzly 1182 in person, and I really don't care for that stand. I'm sure the jointer itself is fine, but the stand is just a flimsy imitator of a good closed-stand model such as the Z version.
That being said, I have overriding concerns about the Delta: It's lever-adjusted, which I don't care for (personal preference) and I'm not sure dust collection would be very efficient. I'd definitely ask the Knots crowd if they have experience with DC on an open-stand jointer.
Between these two machines, I'd take the Grizzly for the above-mentioned reasons. However, I'm most happy to have my Jet :>) Good luck with your decision.
PS: Re: dust collection DC on the jointer is the easiest of any tool. It can be done with a large shop vac quite well. I simply don't know how much an enclosed stand contributes to this ease. But I feel there's no reason to have any dust problem with a jointer, hence the reservation about an open stand.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Edited 7/28/2005 1:34 pm ET by forestgirl
I have had that jointer for several years. With the stock 4" connector, dust collection is not a problem at all.
On the whole, it does a good job jointing and flattening. Power is adequet, motor is quiet, and cut quality is good, with very little tear-out. I have never re-sharpened the blades, just an occassional touch-up with a stone.
The plastic levers (to adjust the fence) that came on mine broke early on. I replaced them with metal levers that come on the new model. I don't mind the lever for infeed adjustment.
Still, I keep looking at 8" jointers and wish I had one. When I am ready to replace it, I think $200 would be a very fair offer.
Regards,
Dan
I have seen a number of reports on the screws that hold the knives in place being over torqued at the factory and having to be cut off to remove the knives or even to adjust them. Also a number of posts on the handle issue you described. I have also seen complaints on the ability to fine adjust the beds - have you had any issues with that?1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Hmmmmm. Since I have never removed the knives for re-sharpening, I don't know if I will have trouble when I do. I hope not.
As far as fine adjustment, that is not an issue with me. I only use it to get a flat face or straight edge. Then I just plane to thickness or rip to width.
What does it mean to remove exactly 1/32" from an edge that is not straight? Yes, I know Norm cuts his lumber 1/16" oversize so he can joint both edges, but this seems to me a waste of wood, and he runs the risk of tapering the piece. A pass with a hand plane will remove the saw marks better without changing the dimensions of the piece.
Regards,
Dan
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