Replies

1. 
   jonsherryl | May 18, 2004 11:00pm | #1

    >>"I know that it is difficult to work with and blunts edges pretty quick but, can anybody think of any other reasons not to use it?"<<

   No, Rick, that pretty much sums up the negatives. Ipe is plenty strong enough and it has outstanding decay resistance. Be sure that the structural integrity of the furniture relies primarily on the design; meaning the joinery and fasteners as opposed to adhesives. Because ipe is so dense, it doesn't give adhesives a good mechanical bond. Also, its density causes it to develop fine surface checks as it is exposed to repeated fluctuations in humidity, but these minor checks aren't typically serious from the structural standpoint. They just affect the appearance a little.

   
   

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   Edited 5/19/2004 7:13 am ET by Jon Arno

2. 
   BOBABEUI | May 18, 2004 11:48pm | #2

   Big Rick,

   After working with the stuff for a small deck, I would second what Jon Arno said. Only other consideration is you would need a crane to move the furniture around, the stuff is that dense!

   Good luck

   
   

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   Edited 5/18/2004 4:49 pm ET by BOBABEUI

3. 
   UncleDunc | May 18, 2004 11:53pm | #3

   No personal experience, but I've seen reports here at Knots of skin and lung reactions to sawdust, and of really nasty festering slivers, much worse than Douglas fir.

4. 
   Jamie_Buxton | May 19, 2004 03:53am | #4

   I've built several decks with ipe over the past several years.   The lumber has generally been okay, but there is a pretty big variation among individual boards.   Some has a ropy grain, like ribbon stripe mahogany.   Some is very straight-grained.  Some is dense, and others are not so.   Some takes up deck oil easily, and other doesn't.    It all works fine for a deck, but I'd find that much variation unsettling in one piece of furniture.   Since you're going to make a big buy for the deck, I suggest that the first thing you do is to sort through the whole stack for the boards to use for the furniture. 

5. 
   Jimma | May 19, 2004 04:54am | #5

   If you go ahead with the chair idea, plan on rounding over, or easing, all the edges either with sanding or a router. Ipe can produce some prodigious splinters. One good snag and your wife will either blame you or the ipe -- guess which one has the odds.

6. 
   JohnWW | May 19, 2004 05:03pm | #6

   Ipe is incredibly heavy and any furniture made from it will be very heavy also.  The first time someone goes to move an Adirondack chair made from ipe they'll think you screwed it to the deck.  I speak from experience on this. 

   Personally, I would use mahogany or cedar for deck furniture that is meant to be moved.

   John W.

1. 
   BigRick | May 19, 2004 06:25pm | #7

   Thanks for the replies.  I am planning on rounding the edges and finish sanding the furniture to address the splinter issues. 

   As far as the weight, I'm thinking that it might actually be beneficial as we usually have some monstrous winds. And we really won't be moving them around, except to powerwash the deck as and when required.  If all else fails, I am a pretty big guy.

   Thanks for the tip on the sawdust, i'd read that before but forgot about it.  I'll be sure to use the appropriate respiratory protection. 

   Regarding the difference in grain...  Thanks for the tip, the vendor from which I am ordering is about 100 miles away.  I was trying to decide whether to have it delivered or make a day trip and trailer it all back to the house.  I guess now, I'll make the day trip and select the furniture lumber myself.  This place actually has a pretty full selection of dimensioned Ipe (1x4-10, 2x4-12, 4x4-12, 6x6-12).  I'm also considering adding a pergola next year made out of the Ipe as well.

   Thanks again for the information.  SWMBO is currently advising me to postpone this project but, whenever I do get to complete it, I'll remember your comments and post pictures.If you can read this, thank a teacher...

   If you are reading it in English, thank a soldier.

1. 
   lcervone | Jun 03, 2005 03:00pm | #8

   I am in the middle of making a set of Adirondack Chairs as a wedding gift for a close friend.  I made templates for the majority of the pieces and I am using a large diameter flush trim bit to rout the ipe.  If you are routing the ipe as well, get as close as possible to the layout lines and don't even consider routing against the grain!  I have predrilled everything and tested each fastener in a test piece of ipe.  I am using stainless on all fasteners.  I live in NY and purchased the ipe at a well-known lumber supplier in the area (Condon Lumber), I purchased 1x6 and 1x3 and they only had it S2S.  It took a while, plenty of muscle and a heck of a lot of splinters but I managed to find enough ipe that matched.  Aside from a couple pieces bowing the wood is very stable (no racking).  I did not even need to joint or plan any peices, which saved a lot of time and not too mentioned planner and jointer knives.  The purchase price of the ipe was actually for 5/4 do to it already being S2S.  I paid $5.40 for a 5/4x6x10.  Have a backup on all of your router bits and blades you'll need it.  I hope to have them completed this weekend and I plan to finish them with a hardwood penetrating oil finish call Penofin.

    

   Good Luck!<!----><!---->

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