I am a Marine stationed in Okinawa Japan. I have grown to love the exotic woods here that I can at the local lumber yards. I have come across a lot of IPE wood that I want to make a (yes I know heavy) dinning room table and other furniture with. I have heard from a lot of people two things. To use gorilla glue and to use Epoxy. I will be laminating about 12 boards together to make the table top.
I know that system three makes an epoxy (T-88 structural adhesive) that is “designed for gluing tropical or oily woods.” Does any one have exp. with this? Does it wreck the planer blades? Any hints or suggestions? Does West System Epoxy have something for me? How can I get it to Japan?
What about that Gorilla Glue? Will it work for my needs or is it better to go with the epoxy? Remeber that it is very humid here in Okinawa, about 90-100% in the spring and summer.
Thank you for any of your comments and help !!!
Karl Steinke [email protected]
Replies
I've heard that Resorcinol is the best adhesive for stuff like Ipe. It's a 2 part mix like epoxy. Unfortunately it's not the easiest thing to find at the local hardware.
Karl,
I can't give you a comparison of the joint strength of Gorilla Glue vs any particular epoxy when joining Ipe. But I can tell you that Gorilla glue works very well on Ipe. There is no special preparation needed, other than standard, good-quality jointing techniques. The jointing should be done as close as possible to glue up. If there is any secret, it is a freshly-planed or jointed surface (less than 24 hours). Wiping the surface with acetone or other solvents is not needed.
Gorilla glue has about a 15 minute open time, which is very helpful if there is a lot of aligning and clamping to get all coordinated.
Water is needed to activate the glue. Apply the glue to one surface and slightly dampen the other (follow the instructions that come with the glue). The humid environemnt of Okinawa may be enough that you don't actually have to wet the wood at all.
I apply the glue with a thin, notched piece of scrap, about 1" wide. I notch the end about every 3/32 inch about 3/32 deep on the band saw. This creates a notched trowel which meters just the right amount of glue so that squeeze out is just a row of tiny drops along the glue line. You can practice any technique that gives you just a minimal squeeze out.
These beads won't run or drip, but will foam up to many times their size. You can wipe them away with acetone while they are wet. This will leave the glue line and surrounding wood perfectly clean without any residual glue to impede staining or finishing. Or let them dry and clean the glue line with tools or sandpaper. The dried glue sands beautifully, leaves no residue in the wood and the glue line is very fine, if not invisible.
I have used Gorilla Glue to join domestic (USA) species and exotic tropical hardwoods including lignum vitae (about as waxy a wood as there is). I can't give you any joint strength figures, but in all cases, the joints have stood the classical test - apply enough stress and the surrounding wood breaks, not the glue line. The manufacturer claims that it can be used for end grain to long grain joints. My only experience is with standard long-grain to long-grain and I can say it is as good as my previous favorite, hot hide glue. And a lot easier to control.
Rich
Don't ever learn anything new. Rather than give you satisfaction that you know more than you did, it will only confirm you know less than you thought by opening horizons to things of which you had never dreamt and which you now must explore.
First off, thank you for the job you are doing.
I can offer experience with Ipe and Gorilla Glue. Have laminated quite a few pieces of that wood together for exterior use here in NJ. Some of the applications have been at homes that are stream-side, and my work is sometimes very wet for weeks at a time. The edge-to-edge Gorilla joints have held up fine over two years. The mouldings I milled to trim out the decks have held up well, with mitered corners joined by GG, too. Many of those parts were small: 3/4" x 4" x 6" and so on. And most of all, the ten million (at least it seemed like ten million) plugs I cut and installed to cover the SS Screws are all doing fine. No water probs from any of these items.
I think your biggest concern inside might be either of the following, regardless of the adhesive/epoxy you choose: A really hot pot or serving dish on a joint may cause some movement betwix the wood and the adhesive... or contact with a tropical (oily) wood in an application where food is consumed. You know the drill: Hand to table to Frito Corn Chip to mouth to allergic reaction. Just a thought.
Good luck!
Semper Fi. I remember when I was in the Corps, in 1970, I always seemed to be able to get epoxy thru the supply system. Gorilla glue wasn't around then, but I'll bet you can still get epoxy off of my tax dollars. I would be happy to see mine go for such a thing.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled