Replies

1. 
   scooter1 | Oct 31, 2008 08:51pm | #1

   I make them exactly to size, or maybe just a 16th under (on all sides) and then trim them. 

   To trim, you can use a TS (my favorite); or with backing a Jointer; or a sharp hand plane.

   I trim them to a 16th all around, about the thickness of a penny. 

   Regards,

   Scooter

   "I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

2. 
   oldusty | Oct 31, 2008 10:45pm | #2

       ba,

                   You'll find the Euro hinges in this application are very forgiving for the most part , you still need to be close , square .

         What thickness doors and what hinge and mounting plate will you use ?

         Mock up an opening and learn how to use the hardware , it is straight forward .

         1/16th is tight , it can be done , I give them about 3/32nds or less on each edge . I make the door exactly 3/16" or less shorter then the opening and split the reveal . When you bore the holes in the door you need to compensate for the 3/32nds reveal if you use a jig to locate the hinge plate .

           I use the jointer to bring them to width .

             regards        dusty

3. 
   Dave45 | Nov 01, 2008 04:09am | #3

   Is there any way to wait until you have the cabs built before you order your doors? Overlay doors are very forgiving, but inset doors have to be very carefully sized to get the gap you want and your cabinet had better be dead-on square.

   If you have to order them before the cab is done, get them ~1/8" oversized in both directions and without the hinge cup holes. Tweak them as needed to fit, then drill the cup holes.

4. 
   Quickstep | Nov 01, 2008 04:54am | #4

   I think you have the doors made to the size of the opening, then trim them to fit the opening with the gap you want to have. 

   I make the gap 3/32.which is about the thickness of a popsicle stick. I put the door in the opening so that it sits just behind the opening. I then use a popsicle stick as a gauge and draw a line around the perimeter of the door with a sharp pencil. I then trim the door close to that line and do test fits using popsicle sticks as shims to hold the door off the bottom and center side to side.   

5. 
   ring | Nov 01, 2008 08:01am | #5

   I agree with Scooter on this. My shop regularly makes the doors for our kitchen cabinets at the same time that the cabinets are being made. We make the doors to the exact opening on the plans, and trim them afterwards as needed. If I was ordering the doors from an outsource I'd certainly do the same. It gives you a bit of leeway, and what have you got to lose?

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

6. 
   hammer1 | Nov 01, 2008 03:40pm | #6

   Inset doors and drawers can be challenging. The door parts as well as the cabinet parts are going to move. The wider the door stiles and cabinet frame the more trouble you may face. I just did some inset glass doors in late August. The humidity was high. What I didn't know was that it was going to increase as I made and finished the doors. I started with the thickness of a nickel, about 3/32", this is a standard measuring procedure in cabinet shops. A hand full of nickels is in many tool boxes.

   I cut the parts for the nickel space. Once they were glued up, they were too tight, not because of construction but because of humidity. I had to take off an additional 3/32 and beveled the strike side, just in case. After coming out of the finishing room, they were too tight again but would close with persuasion. I'm waiting to see what happens with the heat on. We go through large humidity swings over the seasons in New England. 1/16" reveal might be OK if you know you are at the highest humidity level but in dry conditions, I'd go 1/8" and do some praying.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match