Replies

1. 
   roc | Apr 04, 2013 09:43pm | #1

   OK

    Dowels aren't the best idea either and kind of finicky to put in place well.  Krenov got away with it but not for me thanks.

   The photo isn't really hardwood cabinetry at all but serves to demonstrate one very sound solution that you could use and easier to line up than true dowels. There are screws coming in from the side away from the camera and threaded into predrilled holes running CROSS GRAIN through the dowel plugs.  No glue so this is a disassemble-able joint if you by chance were to need that.  I did it to keep the plywood from splitting.

   Annnnyyyywayyyy . . . back to screws into end grain.  Don't do it.

   :   )

   But if you do any hooo use a screw that is not tapered, has fairly fine thread and pre-drill using a drill bit size determined by experimenting on the exact same wood scraps from the project you are building at the time.  Go small to start and see if it splits the samples.  Try several attempts.  If it splits use a larger diameter drill bit.

   Another possibility. believe it or not . . .

   . . . use machine screws and tap the pre drilled holes (again experiment to determine the tap drill size)(there are charts but they are for metal and you will go smaller for wood).  I do this all the time in hardwood running across the grain for jigs and axillary fences and stuff.  Works great.

   One thing to do in any case is LUBE THE THREADS candle wax is good.  Some use soap.

   I hope that helps.  I don't think it is a big deal the exact screws you use.  I like the square drives that are fairly small diameter.

   I am not a big production guy so I just buy them at the local hardware store.  Macfeeley's is probably a good source for quantity.

   I just looked for something the right shape on Amazon and found this though you don't need stainless it is the shape I like.  Small head for finish work.  Don't need the larger head when used in hardwood.

   http://www.amazon.com/Fastap-SS250TTSQ-Trimtite-Stainless-Finishing/dp/B001EES28S/ref=sr_1_140?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1365125351&sr=1-140&keywords=square+drive+screws

   
2. 
   hackmeister | Apr 04, 2013 09:47pm | #2

   End grain screwed

   Generally you try to avoid screwing into end grain because the screw threads cut across the wood fibers rather than between them.  But if the load withdrawl force isn't great , you are going into hardwood, and you are going for "good enough", those gold construction screws from Home Depot work as good as anything.  The idea is you want a course threaded screw with a fine thread to maximize the amount of (weak) wood between the threads.  Pilot drilling is a must.

   If you do need more strength, drill a 1/2 inch dowel in about an inch or so before pilot drilling for the screw to bite into cross grain, basically a poor man's captured nut/bed bolt.  See attached picture.  This actually borders on semi-fine woodworking:)

   
3. 
   Westchester | Apr 05, 2013 06:08am | #3

   Welcome to the Club !

   I would use dowels - it's not too difficult with an inexpensive doweling jig.  A little practice and joints will be perfectly flush and strong.  Also you won't have to cover the heads of the screws.  This round one by general is my favorite - I'm using it over 25 years and it's never disappointed me.

   http://www.amazon.com/General-Tool-840-Pro-Doweling/dp/B00004T82M/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1365156396&sr=1-11&keywords=doweling+jig

   SA

4. 
   RalphBarker | Apr 06, 2013 10:32am | #4

   Engineering the Utilitarian Joint

   While, in general, I agree with the previous suggestions, I think it is helpful to think about what you expect the joint to do. If, for example, the joint is going to endure some sort of stress, the approach (and, fastener) should be different than that used for a joint that won't face any stress. Think, too, about the direction of the stress, and how much force will be exerted on the joint, and choose the fastener accordingly.

   For some applications I like the black McFeely square drive wood screws that are threaded more like non-tapered coarse-thread drywall screws. For other applications, a pocket-hole screw (with a non-threaded section near the head) may be a better solution. For heavy-duty applications, something like the Headlok timber screws may be perfect.

   Gone are the days of the conventional tapered wood screw, I fear. Unfortunately, I have literally thousands of them, inherited from my father who ran an old-school hardware store for decades.

1. 
   hackmeister | Apr 06, 2013 12:03pm | #5

   Joint requirements and bye bye slotted tapers

   Ralph brings up a good point.  Whether the joint needs to resist withdrawl force is probably key, and affect how the joint is done.  If it does, then long screws, screws into dowels or a captured nut is probably the way to go.  If it just needs to resist sheer, then screws, dowels, even nails would probably be fine.  The shelves in my shop are just pine 1x12s with the shelves dadoed in 1/4" to the sides, glued and nailed, with a plywood back rabeted, glued and nailed,  No sliding dovetails, mortice and tenons, or any other fancy nonsense, and they are holding up a couple hundred pounds each.  Maybe worth a C- in shop class, but it's a workshop, not a church.

   I too have boxes and drawers full of good old tapered screws, and most of them slotted.  I can't remember the last time I used one, much less used one willingly.  I don't miss them.