If you had $1000, what TS would you buy?
jhounshell
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
I’d rather not blow the whole grand, but I will if necessary. I’m looking at the Woodtek hybrid, but any other options are very welcomed. If you have other ideas, please tell me why you like them.
Thanks,
Jeff
Replies
Buy a used cabinet saw, PM 66 or General. You'll be glad you did.
Jeff
If I could find one locally, I would do that. I've been looking, but no dice. With gas prices at $3.35 a gallon here, I don't want to drive the Silverado V-8 all over the midwest to pick up a used saw. It is not the most economical vehicle I own ;-)Let me rephrase the question. If you had a $1000 for a NEW table saw, what would you buy?Thanks,Jeff
Honestly, I wouldn't spend my money on any of those so called Hybrid saws. If I were you, I'd drop down to a Bosch portable small saw on a wheelie cart that i could take to jobsites.
All of the saws for $1000.00 or less that I've seen are far too underpowered. You can't cut 8/4 without stalling the blade, or going so slow that you burn the heck out of the wood.
Get a bandsaw instead, and set it up properly to rip. You can process cabinet parts (if you make cabinets with plywood) with a circular saw and a shop made straight cutting jig for about $10 worth of scrap.
That's what I'd do if I had no other choice.
Jeff
Edited 3/11/2008 3:53 pm ET by JeffHeath
Please see below.
jhounshell,
The Grizzly 1023s or 1023sl...
I've looked at those, and it is a consideration. Will require some rewiring in my shop, but I can deal with it I guess. Do you own one of these models?Jeff
jhounshell,
Yes, I bought the 1023s about 5 years ago and very happy I did. No second guessing, suitable for all applications and jigs, cut down on the need for other pieces of equipment. I had to rewire too. Called a sparky, he told me what to get, I installed and he came in for 20 minutes to do the final hook up and turn everything on..cost me $50 plus parts...my wife felt safe then.PS. here is the secret..I paid $695 as I recall 5 years ago....do you think I could get $650 today maybe $700? Buy quality and you'll get your money back any time you want.
Edited 3/11/2008 9:48 pm ET by BG
Thing with me is my wife's uncle is an electrician, he wired my shop for free, I bought the parts. I just feel bad asking him to come run 220 after he spent a day wiring the shop last year.I think I'm gonna have to look more closely at the Grizz. I appreciate everyone's input.Jeff
http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Table-Saw-3-HP-Single-Phase-220V-Left-Tilt/G1023SL
If you can get 240V. I have the slx, but this saw will get-R-Done!!!!!!!! Had mine for a good while now and yet to adjust even with a move from the east coast to the midwest!
Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
I just bought the Grizzly a year ago and I am very pleased. For about $75 more you can buy it with a solid cast iron extension which is fitted to accept a router. Great value. Overall the saw is well machined, true and very powerfull. All I added was an upgrade to the belts with linkbelts. Very little vibration. Each part of the saw constructed with very heavy duty materials, the saw weighs about 500 pounds. I don't own any powermatic tools but I can't see spending nearly twice as much for the same specs on a powermatic over a grizzly.
They did not have the table insert when I bought mine. Still love it after the years and yet to have to adjust the thing. Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
You should seriously think about used, Just saw a DeWalt with sliding table on Craigs list for $800. I have the 746 w/o the slider and the 1 3/4 HP is fine for my needs and I actually like its fence better than the Beismeyer styles.
Best of all it is made in th USA.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Edited 3/12/2008 4:34 pm ET by BruceS
I have looked at the DeWalt with the slider, and I find it VERY appealing. Back to an original post, I can't find anything like that used, unless I want to drive to Colorado to pick it up. Matter of fact, the only used Dewalt I've seen is in Rhode Island, and they want $1799 for it.
Do you remember where you saw that on craigslist?
It was on the Cleveland OH craigs list, Just came back from there and it is gone. Someone got a good deal.Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
I was in your shoes a few years back. The saw I wanted blew my budget. I ended up saving up a couple hundred more dollars and bought a Unisaw at the woodworking show, taking advantage of manufacturer discounts and the like.
Somebody on the forum has a saying that goes something like buy once, cry once.... I know I'm being free with your money, but I think it's probably true.
Quick and Jeff,This is interesting, you guys don't like the new hybrids?Let me explain my circumstances. I'm a hobbyist woodworker, lucky if I get 5-10 hours a week in my shop. Jeff, I have a 17" band saw that cuts like a mother, I'm good there.I'm looking for a quality table saw that is reliable and accurate. I don't plan on cutting much 8/4 and above at this point. I'd like to have a beisemeyer (sp) fence. I'd have to rewire my shop for 220, which ain't all that appealing.Jeff
Again, I'll apologoze in advance if I'm being too free with your money.
The hybrids didn't really exist when I bought my saw. I might have considered them. I was trading up from a saw that had a 2HP motor. I really noticed a difference after making the move to the 3hp Unisaw, even on thinner stock. Like you, I'm a hobbyist who gets too little time in the shop. When I'm there, I'd rather spend the time making sawdust than adjustments. I have not needed to make a single adjustment on the Unisaw since the initial setup. I also know I'll never need to buy another table saw, so I can focus on shopping for other stationary tools!
I see from a later post that you are a hobby woodworker. If I were you, I would buy a quality contractors saw with a good fence. Use a good quality blade and these saws will do anything a hobbyist need to do. I have a Rigid in my hobby shop and it does fine for my needs.
I appreciate your comments. I recently finished construction on a new shop, 16' x 20'. I've looked at several contractor saws, and for what I want to do in my shop, I just think I want something a little beefier. However, I certainly don't need some goliath 5hp mega super saw. I guess that is why that hybrid-size TS is really appealing to me right now.I wish there were a local place where I could get my hands on one of the Woodtek saws. I think I am struggling with this because so many of the saws I'm interested in, I'll just have to buy from looking at photos on the 'net.I'm going to go to Sears soon to see if they have the 22124 in stock, just so I can get my hands on it to get a better feel for it.This will not be an overnight, snap decision.Jeff
Jeff,I would steer away from the contractor style saw and go with the hybrid. I own a Delta contractors saw with a Biesy fence with a FWW2 blade, and although it cuts great the motor sticking out the back is annoying and dust collection is difficult. BTW: I too am a hobbyist with a brand new shop almost that exact same size, I am still looking to fill it with a new table saw. I think that I got my hopes up to high since I had it wired with a 30 amp circuit for a 5HP Euro Slider... wishful thinking. I guess the Cat 6 ethernet cable was kind of wishful thinking too, I thought that I could put a couple of servers out in the workshop where the noise and heat wouldn't bother me!
Jm,
I thought that I could put a couple of servers out in the workshop where the noise and heat wouldn't bother me!
You did nix that idea as well right? Dust & computers = CRASH!
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I just got this saw http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=035-630 for 1199 including insured shipping. It's a bit over your budget. I don't know why they're selling the right tilt so cheap, but it was under my budget and leaves room for some accessories. I can't speak for the saw yet....
Why is it that LT saws are typically more expensive than RT saws? Probably a dumb question but had to ask.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob -
Where are you seeing that? Every saw I've looked at has the same price for RT or LT.
Dave,
Form the previous post of tuolumne7's post above 40732.39 for the Steel City saw.
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=035-630
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 3/13/2008 1:26 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
Well, I learn something new every day. - lol
That's the first time I've seen a differential in the cost of a RT v.s. LT - unless there were other differences.
I gotta wonder why this manufacturer has different pricing - and why it's so much.
Dave,
I'm almost certain I have seen this before, maybe from the same vendor. It may be the vendor as opposed to the manufacturer.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob, Their in stock saws are going for normal price, the RH deal is shipped straight from Steel City. I don't know why this is, but I'm willing to learn new techniques at that price. My LT contractor saw doesn't allow the fence on the left of the blade at all, so I was stuck in that thinking. I realize now that I can rip beveled stock safely with the fence to the left of the blade even on a RT saw. Now I can add on a slider someday if budget allows and the dust collection drops work out better. The only downside I see right now is that I will be limited to a narrow stack of drawers under the saw table due to the need to access the motor housing. Every other vendor I looked for every other brand appeared to price LT and RT the same.
I hope you have a great time with the saw.
I have a RT and haven't really noticed any occasions where I thought a LT would be better. I just happened to notice that they charge more for the LT. Also saw it once B4, I think it was an old post from forestgirl.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
See http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=40732.66forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
In Canada HD is still selling off the Delta RT hybrid which, like the SC, also seems to have been overproduced for the U.S. I expect hobbyists upgrading from a contractor saw would automatically go for the LT given a choice because it's what they're used to. But surely it's a bit early to write off the contractor saw? For hobbyists, perhaps, but I wouldn't want to lug a hybrid round a job site. Sawstop seems to think the CS has a future, and if anyone needs extra safety it's on the jobsite where any cowboy seems to have access to the saw.
Jim
on the jobsite where any cowboy seems to have access to the saw.
Excellent point.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
"But surely it's a bit early to write off the contractor saw? For hobbyists, perhaps, but I wouldn't want to lug a hybrid round a job site." The Ridgid, Bosch and other jobsite saws would surely survive, they're just too handy! I was thinking more of the in-shop (as you indicate, hobbyist) saws.
"I expect hobbyists upgrading from a contractor saw would automatically go for the LT given a choice because it's what they're used to." I've been under the impression that right-tilt is the most common contractor saw configuration. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I went through and reread most of the posts in this thread. It seems to me that the winner is a grizzly 1023. I can't figure out for the life of me why anyone would look anywhere else at this point. If the ability to move the say to 110V power was a huge issue, for a renter or a very old electric system I could see the hybrid. I cannot see the Hybrid as a viable alternative in the $1000 price range. If your budget allows make the step right into the cabinet saw league. Since you cannot touch any saw for the power, features, and user base for the money the Grizzly really seems like a no brainer. In addition, the saw has lots of features and add-ons, like a router table wing. As for contractors saws, why would anyone spend $600 for a saw meant to be broken down and thrown in a pickup truck any more. Once upon a time they were a perfect solution. But then there were also Radial Arm Saws on trailers at every jobsite too.
"I've been under the impression that right-tilt is the most common contractor saw configuration."
I guess it was, but up here in the still-frozen North I don't think I've seen an RT on display for years, and I've never owned one. The basic General CS is LT only, and you have a choice on the deluxe model. Ridgid is LT only, and Craftsman was, though they change suppliers so often it's hard to keep up. All of the CS on Delta's website are LT. Grizzly offers a choice, except on the new riving-knife model, which is LT only. Seems like the lefties have taken over! It'd be interesting to know the actual numbers, but maybe impossible to find out. Some manufacturers don't even specify.
Jim
My old blue Jet saw must be more of a dinosaur than even I realized!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
This page in the WW.com site has caused a great deal of confusion. It is the big sale of Steel City RT saws that I touted over a month ago. From what I gather, Steel City did overstock the right tilt model, and is clearing it out. The page you linked to has the sale saws that come directly from the Steel City warehouse, and the saws that WW.com already has in inventory. The model that's $600-$800 more than the rest is the in-stock, LT model that would come from WW.com. I don't think there's anywhere near that much difference in the normal price of the saws.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I think it's just a supply and demand quirk. Somebody ordered the production of more RT saws than they should have.
-Steve
Jeff -
I hope that your Sears is better than mine. - lol
I've been eyeballing the Craftsman hybrid for about a year and hope to take the plunge this year. Yesterday, I stopped by Sears and couldn't believe what I saw. Their display 22214 looks like a complete piece of junk. Poorly assembled, dirty, spills on the table, random parts laying on it, fence wouldn't lock, etc, etc.
So, I'm giving this saw (the most expensive tool in the store) a serious once-over, but the sales crew is too busy BS'ing to come over and speak to me. If I hadn't already heard all the good reviews about this saw, I wouldn't have given it a second look. Based only on what I saw in the store, I wouldn't have taken one if they were giving it away.
That seems to be the biggest problem at Sears these days. The products themselves aren't so bad, but the personnel are disconnected, disinterested and incompetent.
-Steve
"I see from a later post that you are a hobby woodworker. If I were you, I would buy a quality contractors saw with a good fence. Use a good quality blade and these saws will do anything a hobbyist need to do. I have a Rigid in my hobby shop and it does fine for my needs."
The Ridgid saw, according to our expert John White (working from dim memory here), is a better design than most contractor saws. Caution about assuming others work as well. The contractor design has a major weakness -- that motor hanging out the back puts stresses on the blade carriage mechanism that will cause most saws to go out of alignment to some degree when the saw is tilted to 45 degrees. In addition to that, the procedure for aligning the blade to the miter slot is primitive and a pain in the rear, compared to aligning a cabinet saw (or some hybrids, including the Sears saw being discussed above, one of its big advantages, IMHO).
All of this before things like power and vibration are taken into consideration. The contractor design is (hopefully) on its way out, with better designed hybrids taking its place. In a few months, I hear, all saws will be required to have riving knives.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG: I think the riving knife mandate extends out to 2014, or there-a-bouts.
James
Yep, you're right, James. When I first heard about it (on another forum) it sounded like the change would be made sooner, but with your info I found the Summary of Requirements here.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
My Rigid saw is nearly the same saw as the old Craftsman with some improvements such as a much better fence. I learned long ago not to rely on the scale for 45 degree settings but use a combination or other type square for setup. As for vibration, you can place a nickel on edge on the table and turn the saw on and off without it falling. Yes, cabinet saws are nice but for home shop use I find that price and portability are more important to me. Some folks can't dig a ditch without a backhoe while others of us just pick up a good spade. I guess it all depends on need and affordability.
The chance of finding a good used TS are slim. I would do as most have suggested and get a Grizzly 1023 series saw. If you are trying to save a buck get the low end of the series and add a real Biesmeyer fence when you come up with more cash. Making the outfeed tables is a snap and you will have 50" to the right of the blade. If you have your heart set on a hybrid, I think FWW rated the Woodtek the best of the hybrids.
I have left tilt 1023SL. I was in the same boat budget wise. Today I would more than likely stalk craigslist and buy a used machine, but for plug and play you can't beat the grizzly. I lean away from the hybrid for two reasons. First, you said 8/4, and 2 Taiwan hp may do it, but 3 is better. Second, you cannot get a better saw for what you want to spend. Hybrids aren't space savers, so for you the issue is moot. Frankly, I wouldn't go hybrid unless I could not get 220. And then its a stretch.
If you had $1000, what TS would you buy?
I'd pay less and get my old RIDGID saw again.. Works GREAT!
If I had 10 Grand I'd get a European slider! But then again I'd have to have that much extra to get me a new shop to fit it in!
I have been happy with my Dewalt hybrid. Runs quietly, no vibration. Enough power for anything I have done. The fence could be easier to mount accessories on, but that is easy to fix
I've had a Craftsman 22124 hybrid that I bought nearly 3 years ago at a good price. It was a bit more of a risk back then, but it's proven to be a great saw for a hobbyist, and has gained a very large enthusiastic following since then. It'll cut 8/4" wood (like hard maple) fairly effortlessly with a 24T TK rip blade. It'll cut 12/4" pretty respectably. In a nutshell it's cut anything I've needed without significant effort. My contractor saw would cut nearly as well...I'm sure hundreds of contractor saw and hybrid owners will agree. The hybrid takes up less space, has better DC, more mass, a bigger cast iron surface, and better power transfer than my contractor saw did. It's met my needs well enough, that I actually passed on a used 10 year old Griz 1023 last summer. Not that I wouldn't like the 1023, but the increase in power would not have offset the loss of rip capacity, surface area, left tilt, and my router table. Maybe someday, but not that day!
The hybrid is an excellent alternative to a traditional contractor saw for many hobbyists. It's more than adequate powerwise, and offers many of the advantages of an industrial cabinet saw, with the restrictions of lower power and a lighter duty rating. With that said, a hybrid won't compete head to head competitively with a 3hp Uni, 1023, or PM66, but it will do the job in most homeshops. Many of the better hybrids dip down into the low $700's on sale regularly, and even $600's occassionally, which place them several hundred dollars below a full cabinet saw, and very close in price to a high end contractor saw. A hybrid is a great choice for a hobbyist who wants a new saw and who doesn't have 220v, or can't justify spending over a $1k. If you've got 220v and can afford the cabinet saw, that's the more substantial machine for sure.
The 22124 is very similar to the Steel City hybrids...both come from Steel City's subsidiary Orion. Both have cabinet mounted trunnions that add alot of mass and are easy to align. The Woodtek has basically the same design and underpinnings as the GI 50-220, Canadian Craftex, and Sunhill Machinery. They have a one-piece cast arbor carriage with trunnions that mount to the table, and use a dual drive stage. Grizzly, Shop Fox, and Jet both offer hybrids with a similar trunnion system. The Steel City, 22124, Jet, Woodtek, and Grizzly have all received top honors an a magazine review.....obviously which one is best is a matter of opinion and is subject to debate. Any one of them can be tuned to be a very fine saw. Look at as many as you can and buy the one that YOU like best, then set it up well with a good blade.
Edited 3/11/2008 9:49 pm ET by Knotscott
OK, so you seem to know what you are talking about, so let me ask you your opinion. Are the 22124 and Steel City with cabinet mounted trunnions easier to set up and align than the Woodtek and other models you mentioned?Thanks for all your input, I appreciate it.Jeff
Hi Jeff - I know my saw, and have an "awareness" of the designs of the others. The Orion hybrids have an alignment procedure that's about the same as aligning a cabinet saw. I haven't tried to align the others, but the fact that the bolts are easier to reach on the cabinet mounted trunnions, and the fact that you align the table to the blade while standing upright with the both components in view, as opposed to blindly aligning the whole trunnion carriage to the table via trial and error on the others, I'd hazard a guess "yes". It was much easier to align the 22124 than my GI contractor saw, which has table mounted trunnions.
Edited 3/11/2008 10:41 pm ET by Knotscott
Is this the current version of the saw you are speaking of?http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00922114000P?sbf=Brand&sbv=Craftsman&vName=Tools&cName=Bench+Power+Tools&sName=Table+Saws
Excuse me for butting in, but I think he may be referring to this. I was just reading an article on this Craftsman hybrid.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00922124000P?vName=Tools&cName=Bench+Power+Tools&sName=Table+Saws
YMMV
Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
That's the one Harry. Jeff linked to the 22114 from the same family...it has the same trunnion system, a different fence, and a different enclosure.
Here's a peek under the hood:
View Image
Edited 3/11/2008 11:31 pm ET by Knotscott
Yeah, I've been doing some research on it...seems to be a decent saw for the bucks.
Harry
Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
Jeff,
I think this is the one: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00922124000P?keyword=22124
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Chances are, if you have an outlet where you need it and it 's on a single line he would only have to change the outlet and move one wire in the breaker box to switch to 220.
Jack
The Sears Craftsman intermediate saw got a really good review in FWW. It comes available with a Biesemeyer Fence.
Delta Unisaw. I used one at work for 30 years. Finally wore out the teeth on the casting under the table. I bought another and they are still using it 12 years later. The saws were used 4 to 6 hours a day in a 9 month school year by classes of 15 to 20 students. A machine that will stand up to student use and abuse must be good. Experienced operators should make them last much longer.
jhounshell.
My Grizzly has sure been wonderful. It's a true cabinet saw, well made powerful and flat as a pancake..
IT's not as fancy as some saws are but I can attest to it's durability and zero maintinance since I uncrated it..
Which flavor of the Grizz saws do you have?Jeff
jhounshell
Because I'm building a timberframe and need to cut some large timbers I went with a 12 inch saw. G5959
Unless you need to cut thru 4 inch timbers on a single pass I would think the G1023 would be more suitable for most hobbiests..
I will warn you though.. I bought my first Grizzly and was so pleased with it that I wound up equiping the whole shop with Grizzly stuff and thus far the only failure was one drive belt which my local NAPA had in stock.
Thus far my Grizzly tools have handled over 40,000 bd.ft. of hardwood in a little over 6 years.. If you go to 37758.1 and 34543.3 you'll see some pictures of my work in progress.
I'm sorry but I'm with JeffHeath. Buy a used Unisaw or PM 66. You'll get much more saw for the money than a newer alternative. I have two 1975 vintage Rockwell unisaws. Each was purchased for around $700. Keep an eye on craigslist, ebay, woodweb.com and the classifieds in your local newspaper. You'll find one within driving distance.
Chip
Griz. I have the 1023sl Have built everything from cabs. to small boxes, and everything in between. A new one is $1050 and $140. shipping mine shiped to 2mi from home. Could not ask for better machine ,fence is shop fox. I already had a bis.
AZAL
I'm sorry, maybe I misunderstood you. But did you say they shipped to within 2 miles from your home? They don't ship directly to your house?Jeff
Yes corect but you should know i live 30mi from a real town/grocery store. So that was the best i could do, it was at a quick-mart. So i was happy to get it that close. One phone call to griz will get much better ans. than i can give.
AZAL
Usually you can pay a bit more for liftgate service to get freight delivery at a residence. I picked up my bandsaw at a local place with a loading dock. Around here there are many friendly folks who will let someone do this and even load it into their truck with a forklift.
yep, I think i paid $65 extra for my Griz 1023 lift gate service.
Check out this TOTT comparison of 10 Hybrid saws.
http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/industry-news.asp?sectionID=1476&articleID=501503
The testing was done in a snowboard factory, so the saws were put to pretty heavy testing; everything from ripping speed to dust collection.
This is an easy one.
The Grizz 1023s is a slam dunk for the money. Girzz offers great machines/tools for weekend wood warriors.
I own the 1023 TS and it fits my needs great. It would be wonderful to own a PM66 or the Unisaw, but the economics do not justify how I use it --which is about 6-12 hours per week at best.
Good luck--- and I am always willing to hear comments.
Later--
Jeff,
I have had the woodtek Hybrid for iver a year now and I have been VERY pleased with the results. It does not bog down or lag even when cutting 3 inch Pecan. I have had a freud diablo TK and now have a Ridge Carbide TK the saw is just awsome. Other things are the beis-style fence is very easy to dial in. It comes with built in mobil base. More important to me than all of the above is when I discovered that the measuring tape was missing, one call to wyoming connected me with a real person who was genuinely interested in helping me. I got the part in 3 days. Hope this helps.
You've already had more good advice than I can offer ... but I'll share my experience for what it's worth. I'm new to all this so I have no experience outside of what I've learned on my own. I have a 14x24 shop similar no doubt to yours and was using a Ryobi contractors saw which I'd outgrown. A month ago I decided to buy the Grizzly 1023SL along with a zero clearance plate (it was easier initially than making one). When I finished my shop I knew I'd need some 220 lines so I put the wires in place before the insulation and drywall. Wiring it in took about an hour or so as a result. The saw does not come with a plug so you'll need to get one to match the receptacle. For ease of use, I also put a cutoff box in line with it as I'm almost fanatical about removing power when doing adjustments or changing blades ~ I'm very attached to my fingers and want to keep them that way. It took about a week of tweaking stops and small adjustments, then I had to build an outfeed table but now that things are pretty well adjusted in, I'm very pleased with the performance. The 3HP motor along with a Woodworker II blade has cut through everything I've fed it like butter. Dust collection is excellent and the Shop Fox fence, once adjusted, is extremely solid. I can't compare this to any other cabinet saws as I've never tried any, but as long as it cuts whatever I put to it accurately, what more do I need? And other cabinet saws cost at least several hundred more. Grizzly support is excellent as well. I bought their baby drum sander a few weeks ago and had a faulty part. One call and it was shipped immediately with no hassles.
Setup will take two people for safety. Remember that freight is only curbside ... you're going to have to get it into your shop on your own.
Edited 3/21/2008 7:29 am ET by SparrowHawk
Edited 3/21/2008 7:29 am ET by SparrowHawk
"Setup will take two people for safety. Remember that freight is only curbside ... you're going to have to get it into your shop on your own."
Pay the extra 30-40 bucks and get liftgate service. They will pull it off on a pallet jack and park her where ever you want (not down steps of course). It's worth the money. I've used it on both the TS, & 12" jointer from griz. Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Remember that freight is only curbside ...
UNLESS YOU HAD THE GUY A $20.00 AND ASK FOR HELP!
OR $30.00 for inflation! Or maybe some lunch and a drink!
Edited 3/21/2008 9:26 am by WillGeorge
Every time I've used it(liftgate service), the guy pulls it off the truck on the pallet jack and put it down where I wanted, but then, its not been a long haul from the driveway to the garage.
Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Edited 3/21/2008 2:07 pm by bones
I am another Grizzly 1023SL(W) fan and hobbyist. After 18 months I am upgrading the fence but the Shop fence works well. I needed to file the t-slots a little but otherwise everything measured flat and square. An exception is the the fence right hand side plastic is wavy due to I think how the holes were made (punched?) into that side of the steel tubing which the factory tried to correct with shims placed between the plastic and tubing. I recently got a Grizzly 8" jointer the G0586 that is exceptionally flat and gets good reviews, and am looking at a Grizzly G0514X bandsaw next. All these can run on the same 220V circuit provided they are not run at the same time.
"Whatever you can do or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power and magic in it. Begin it now!" -Goethe
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