Hello all,
Please visit my woodworking site at http://www.steveweb.net. I’m a beginner woodworker, and the site’s purpose is to show my progress as I learn and become more advanced. My site does not try to sell you anything; I’m simply sharing what I’ve learned since I entered the hobby a little over a year ago.
After viewing the site, please do me a favor and sign the guestbook and let me know what you thought!
Thanks in advance for your help!
Steve
Replies
Steve,
Great site. I'm always impressed with what folks like you are able to do with their computers - I haven't yet managed to master MS Word! Of course, I'm also impressed with the level of skill your woodworking shows, especially for someone who's only been at it for a year. Good job.
Just a few comments regarding some of the problems you've been encountering.
Blotchy stain. You can seal the wood with a 1 lb. cut of shellac first then follow with a gel stain which should yield good results. (This is a must when working with pine or aspen.) However, with maple I prefer to use aniline dye rather than stain. Really brings out the grain, especially that lovely figure that stains tend to obscure.
Raised grain. If you're going to wipe any part of a board with water, do the entire surface, allow to dry, then sand lightly. (This must be done to all stained surfaces if a water based finished will be used.)
Excess glue and squeeze out. The bane of all beginning woodworkers (and many who've been at it for quite some time!) Ideally, one uses just enough glue to cover all surfaces of a joint providing necessary bonding, yet not too much to result in squeeze out. Yeah. Blue painter's tape can help a lot here. Apply to the very edges of all glued joints, and remove when glue has dried. Should eliminate any problems you've been having.
Dado cuts. Unless you have a miter sled on your table saw, or own a radial arm saw, these are more easily cut with the router. Clamp a straight edge to the board and follow that to make your cut.
Putty. Try to make it a rule never to use the stuff. If you must, use it after you've done your staining, and match it to your finish color. Also, learn to avoid using nails in your woodworking. As you progress, you'll find that you can construct your pieces so that no (or almost no) exposed surfaces are marred by screws or nail holes.
Keep up the great work!
Jeff
Very nice site indeed. Your work will only improve with time and experince.
I really don't agree with the T/S you have. You should move to a contractors saw in the future with some good cast iron wingsand a mobile base. Miter saw I would do without. Now you have to buy 12" and 10" blades. If you need a dado and can't cut it on the T/S, then get an edge guide and use the router. I would also pass over the mortiser and get a drill press, 12" or 15", and buy some mortising chisels and bits. A good set of plug, dowel cutters and fostners bits also. I personally don't have a lot of room to do my woodworking and I have to make it work or I am doomed. A lot of work I do by hand and have gotten very good at it. I make all my dovetails by hand and love doing it that way.
Dave in Pa.
Steve,
One final suggestion. Add a few hand tools to your arsenal and learn to use them. You will really become a much more proficient woodworker as you learn how wood acts and reacts much more intimately than you will using only machines , and will become much more accurate with your machine work. Start with a block plane or a few good chisels.
Jeff
Great site. I should hire you when I get serious about setting one up. I especially liked the pinewood derby. I used to get pretty into them when my kids were in Indian Princesses and Guides. So much so, that I started a Dad's class so they're be no resentment or guilt. Good job on the win and the car.
John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
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Edited 1/28/2004 1:42:26 AM ET by Venicia L
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