I got a stiff one
I figured that would get you guys attention<G>. I had a router table fence that had some movement . It would flex a little. It was a one piece fence made of 3/4 HDPE plastic. I got rid of it yesterday and made a split fence outta 1/2 baltic birch. I used a 1/2″ aluminum backing that the baltic is bolted to so it would eliminate the flex. Man am I a happy camper now. I have teeking to do yet but I like it. So what do you guys use a split or solid fence and why and what material is it made out of.
Darkworksite4: When the job is to small for everyone else, Its just about right for me”
Mine is solid one piece made of MDF. But it is nothing but garabge. I have plans to build a new one once I get back.
Scott C. Frankland
Newfoundland Wood Worker
My current fence, which admittedly isn't much, is BB plywood (L-shaped to clamp to table) with adjustable half-fences made from maple. I have brass shims to insert on the outfeed side if I use the router for jointing.
There's one outfit on the internet that uses an aluminum L, faces it with wood, and then joints the wood (while mounted to the L) to ensure a 90-degree unit. Interesting idea, and now that I have a jointer living in my shop, might just have to try it!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I have the CMT Industrio split system fence. It makes it possible to use zero clearance bit inserts as the inside ends are beveled to accept the inserts. As they are out of inserts and have yet to ship the extras that were to have been included with the fence I planed maple to match thickness and they work great.
One fence on the system can be shimmed out to use as a jointer. I have not used that as I do all on the jointer. Maybe here are better uses that I am unaware of for this set-up as I don’t claim to be more than a novice at woodworking.
The CMT table looks nice. How much did you pay for it? What do you like about it? Any problems other than the late parts?Jase--Is there a better way?
I bought CMT 991.501.00 for $399. Everything seems solid. The fence is very sturdy and the phenolic top is flat. With the pivoting fence it is easy to set and adjust. Good miter and Tee slots for hold-downs and fingerboards. If you go to WoodShopDemos.com John has a few demos using it. He also has a demo adding additional doors, switches, and additional dust collection to the cabinet.As this top does not use an insert you must drill it for your router using the provided centering tool. I wish you could order it pre-drilled but I could not at the time of purchase. I guess if you do it yourself and are careful you know it is drilled properly and not at the mercy of someone on a bad Monday morning. Using the direct mount approach it seems to be less likely to sag with a heavy router installed. If you get the CMT bent wrench or make one yourself, it is easy to change bits with the router installed.Good Luck, George
Replaced my wood OEM fence with aluminum bar stock. Works great. If you have access to a machine shop, this is the way to go.
I have one now that is a aluminum with a "T" slot on both sides. That is how I attached the baltic birch fence. I also used BB to attach the fence to the table. Still got some tweeking to do but I was making raised panels today again and man am I happy with it. Darkworksite4: When the job is to small for everyone else, Its just about right for me"
Ron, I have a split fence and I use 1/4" masonite face plate templates.
Steve - in Northern California
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled