Hutch with Handtools Only – One problem to solve
I had 13 days off this holiday season and I decided to spend them building a hutch. I have this spot in the dining room that begs for a hutch. I could buy one but what fun is that?
Over the last year I collected plans, made measurements, and even collected some wood and now I was ready to go. There are a lot of dados and rabbetts in this hutch and my first inclination was to figure out how to set the screaming electric router to cut these..and how to guide it.
But when I got to the shop I spied a wooden box – it contains a Stanley #71 router plane. I bought this a year or two ago and never used it. Screw electricity – I’m going to sharpen this baby up and cut the dados with that. So I did.
I marked the dado with a square, knifed in the lines with the marking knife; chiseled in a groove in the waste; and then cut to depth with a hand saw. I then hogged out most of the waste with a chisel and then used the router to clean them up.
VERY satisfying. Quiet work.
I’m close to assembly, now, and so far the only electricity used are for the lights and the shop-vac.
Now to the question:
I’m going to cut a bullnose on the main work surface of the hutch, with a wooden moulding plane. The grain runs left to right so that bullnose will be easy to cut with the plane.
But the end grain needs a bullnose as well. How was that done? Did they rough it out with the plane, cross-grain, and then smooth it up somehow? I might resort to a block plane.
Thanks,
Gregg
Replies
Hi Gregg ,
A bull nose is prolly the most forgiving profile to make as a rule .
Try the same plane , if it will not work a block plane is my first choice to rough
out the shape and depending on the wood I may use files then sand paper to finish the shape.
good luck
regards dusty
An Inspiring Post and Photos ! Thanks !
Welcome to the Knots forum !
This DVD may help you.
Molding Techniques The Basics
http://www.planemaker.com/
Probably plane the end grain first. Use a runout block to keep the last bit from splintering off. Use the block plane to take off the sharp edges first before using the molding plane. Sharpen the blade a couple few times on the molding plane while you are doing the end grain. Wetting the wood a bit helps. Files are good on end grain if you are judicious and have sharp files.
Mostly do what the guys in the DVD say. They really know this stuff.
PS: oh and don't forget to play some nice orchestral music while you work. Now that you can hear it (no screaming router).
My first posts here many years ago were about music in the shop so I may as well start out 2013 right and post what I am listening to :
http://www.amazon.com/Vaughan-Williams-Greatest-Hits-Ralph/dp/B0009XFJ36/ref=sr_1_1?s=music&ie=UTF8&qid=1357168109&sr=1-1&keywords=ralph+vaughan+williams+greatest+hits
I have been listening
to Henry Gray and Jerry McCain this afternoon and Axel Zwingenberger this morning while useing a spoke shave and a circumference plane
ron
Nope - no music of any kind
I tried that once years ago and I got to rockin' out so much to the music that I made horrid woodworking mistakes.
Nope - tis better to be quiet in my mind and pay attention to what I'm doing.
Yep
Yah I know what you mean. Some times quiet is best for concentrating. Some times though, for repetitive work, music has a place. You probably haven't found the right groove yet. Funny how I listen to different types of music for different work:
For woodworking orchestral : Mozart, Corelli etc. with some Sati or Mahler around the edges
For mechanical work, blues : Tab Benoit, Eric Clapton, SRV
For jewelry like metal work and brazing , big band : Benny Goodman, Glenn Miller,
After mid night and for heavier metal work, country : George Strait, Randy Travis, Johnny Cash
Yah with the rock you got to be careful you don't drop your plane and start doing air guitar but it is just as dangerous with the classical . . . might start conducting or playing air violin with a winding stick.
For a while there after I got the new speakers I admit I found myself doing a pretty good imitation of Nipper the RCA logo dog. That is , just standing there listening.
: )
Some pictures
I tried to upload some photos of the project with my main post but I don't see them. So I will try again here:
Photos
Nah, they worked the first time. On my end I am seeing, in your first post, little rectangles at the bottom of your post with question marks in them. When I clicked on them I was able to see your three photos. The first one scared me, from the clutter I thought you had some how snuck into my shop to work but the other two made me relax again.
no power saurs either
Aside from unlimbering, sharpening and joyously using my Stanley #71, the other tools that have hung unused for years are my hand crosscut and rip saurs (saws). I occasionally used the crosscut....but never enough to acquire some real facility with cutting square and too the line. I decided I was going to do that with this project and so all board sizing was done with the 20 year old (i.e. nothing special) crosscut and 20 year old, highly unused Diston rip saurs.
I was amazed at how, with just a little practice, I cold crosscut square and to the line. This GREATLY reduced the amount of shooting I had to do at the shooting board to square up the end of the piece.
While manual sawing has been enjoyable, I can see what my next project will have to be once I get done making the hutch:
a saw stool.
I can see this will make all the difference in the world as to how easy it is to steady the work and repeatedly cut square and true.
Bullnose completed...
....with a block plane and some (ugh) sandpaper.
THe bullnose along the front edge of the hutch work surface was easy as it was with the grain. But I was a little concerned how I'd do the bulnose at the worksurface ends. This past weekend I dove right in with a chisel and the block plane and it was really simple. Chiseled the corners off to avoid spelch then just planed the bullnose in. I finished with sandpaper - I hate sandpaper and I hate sanding but it was the only way I could figure out how to smooth the bulnose surfaces. Came out very nice and was prety simple.
So now all the parts are ready for the assembly of the carcase. I will be doing that Saturday. After that it'll be face frames, doors and back. Then varnish.
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