Geeze it’s good to be back! I see some new names and some old familiars, greetings to all!
OK, I ought to post this in the Darwin award thread down in the cafe I suppose, but you decide. I just bought a group of eight planes off Ebay, a #7, repaired #6, #4, #36 reworked to a hollow (why?), a #130, a #78, a nice Record 042 shoulder plane, and last but definitely not least, a #10 1/4 carriage makers rabbet.
A nice haul, especially considering that I paid what the 042 alone should bring. I love Ebay! Not all is great though. Some blooming idiot painted the 6, 7, 130, and the 10 1/4 blue!!!! Its just spray paint, and I bet there is a way to get it off, without ruining the japanning underneath. My book says that a 10 1/4 should run between $450, and $900, so I’d really like to make this blue paint disappear. I’ve been trying a few things on the other not so collectable planes, but I’m not real happy with the results.
Any of you guys and gals have suggestions? Mike, you out there?
Replies
What have you tried that you are not happy with? I always thought real jappaning was a baked-on finish and would not be affected by paint remover, etc. Maybe the blue paint was used to cover up a bad black paint job?
Ben,
Well I just tried a product called "John Deere Paint and Decal Remover" on a part of my test plane, and it made the japanning soft. The blue paint came off, easily, and I'm going to try less sitting time with this product next. I tried it last night, and before I went to bed, the japanning was easly scratched with my finger nail, but this morning, it was hard. I guess this shows promise.
I don't think anything abrasive is a good idea, as it would be obvious by the feathered edges on the spots where the japanning is missing. I usually use electralisys to just get rid of all the crud, but I don't think it would do what I'm looking for.
I think japanning is a baked on, asphalt based product. It is different then paint. Mike Taylor rejapanned a 113 for me, and if I decide to keep this plane, I'll probably just have that done. They look spectacular when he's done.Steve
Send it to me, I'll take care of it !!!
But be warned, it might get lost in the return.....somewhere in my shop !!!
Bob in Sherbrooke, Province of Québec
Work on very small areas and quickly. Put some stripper on and wipe it off--maybe using 0000 steel wool, opened out, to remove the paint sludge. Then wipe with mineral spirits.
Alternatively I think that ammonia may remove latex paint--which this might be. So give that a try. Glad you have some not so valuable to try on.
But the real deal is to not let it sit long. My sister has preserved original decoy paints doing this and I have done it on an Amish cabinet to preserve the wonderful paint underneath.
Try just soaking it in one of these liquids; ammonia, kerosene, light machine oil, pine-sol, laquer thinner, naptha, mineral spirits or turpentine (I would suggest moonshine but it would be a terrible waste). I think these solvents should be strong enough to soften a light coat of paint (hopefull it is krylon) but not strong enough to effect the japaning. I think. Try it in a small area first.
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