Replies

1. 
   RMillard | Sep 01, 2009 07:41pm | #1

   You can finish a hammer veneered surface in any way you want.

   I don't apply glue to the surface of the veneer, because I find it messy, but even if you do put glue on the surface a scraper would remove it. What glue is left after scraping and sanding, is compatible with any finish I have heard of.

   Rob Millard
   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 01, 2009 09:47pm | #2

   Thanks Rob,That sounds good. But what do you mean when you say it is MESSY? Hide glue is not to different from Gorilla glue in that regard. Wear old clothes.JerryFrosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

1. 
   RMillard | Sep 01, 2009 10:24pm | #3

   Jerry,

   I gave up wearing my tuxedo in the shop a long time ago, although I do try to be stylish.

   Hide glue is so sticky that having it all over the work piece annoys me. I could live with that, but when you inevitably have to heat the surface to re-liquify the glue, then you have glue on the bottom of the iron. After a while this makes it nearly impossible to work with, especially if you are trying to build a pattern.

   Rob Millardhttp://www.americanfederalperiod.com

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 02, 2009 04:17pm | #5

   RobAfter a life-changing experience with Gorilla glue on a lamination job I thought I had seen the worst. But, hide glue comes in a close second.In a class, Phillip Lowe suggested glue on the surface to reduce 'bend-up"; it works but is messy.I've never tried an iron to reheat an area. I had trouble yesterday afternoon getting tight miters on banding. I was thinking "heat gun". Does that work for selective loosening for a refit?Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

1. 
   SgianDubh | Sep 02, 2009 04:55pm | #6

   I have always used a damp or wet rag under the iron to reheat areas and loosen the veneer which works well. I use the same technique when laying the veneers in the first place, ie a damp or wet rag and an iron on medium to high heat.

   The problem with heat guns, although they do work, is that they tend to burn the veneer. The water in the rag, when used with an iron, helps loosen the glue. I suppose you could mist on water with a plant sprayer and use a heat gun, but I haven't tried that technique. Slainte.richardjonesfurniture.com

2. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 02, 2009 06:08pm | #8

   Thanks to both. I understand about the heat gun I don't have one and now I won't buy one.Nancy, my sweet wife, is out of the house now. It may be safe to go 'borrow' her iron - or perhaps I would be safer using the iron the kids used to wax their skis, a long time ago. I'll clean it off first!I did not use Gorilla glue on veneer. I used it the first time on a bent lamination to avoid creep. I applied a little water first - that REALLY got the foaming action in high gear. I've since stuck with plain PVA and have not had any creep. More and thinner lams is better!Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

3. 
   sapwood | Sep 02, 2009 07:29pm | #9

   Don't use your wife's iron unless you want to buy another one for ironing clothes. Go to a local thrift store and get one for $5 or less. While you're there, pick up a used hair dryer for a couple of bucks... very handy when testing finishes. They'll also have sets of teaspoons, measuring cups, etc. Things that will keep you out of the kitchen stuff and you'll need for finishing in the shop.

4. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 02, 2009 11:57pm | #10

   On the iron - you sound as though you speak from experience.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922

5. 
   sapwood | Sep 03, 2009 08:44am | #11

   I've ironed my share of shirts. Having some hide glue end up on my collar wouldn't make me happy at all. Having my wife unhappy with me upsets me even more.

6. 
   RMillard | Sep 02, 2009 05:06pm | #7

   Frosty,

   I have not used Gorilla glue.

   The glue on the surface does stabilize the veneer, by keeping the moisture content equal on both sides and it also extends the gel time a bit by keeping things warmer.

   Water sprayed on the surface will do the same thing and a clothes iron will take care of the heating.

   I have not tried a heat gun, but I guess it would work. The only thing I can think of is that the heat gun would dry out the surface so much that curling might be a problem.

   If you decide to go with an iron, I have found the Black & Decker IM310 ($11.98 at Wal-Mart) works very well.

   Rob Millardhttp://www.americanfederalperiod.com

2. 
   RW | Sep 02, 2009 01:41am | #4

   It is often applied to the top because it helps keep the veneer flat. Equal heat and moisture on both sides. It also makes the hammer glide much easier. But what you haven't heard is that any excess on the top is largely removed by hammering.

   Whatever isnt, a just moist rag wipes away, and since hide glue doesnt absorb into the wood, anything left after that sands readily when dry.

   As to the iron, I keep mine in a pyrex dish with just a little water in the bottom. Anything that might transfer to the iron falls off in the water, keeping it clean. If the iron is sticking to the veneer, there's too much glue left on the face.

    

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