I need to cut 20 ft of molding with the dimensions shown in the attachment. I set out to do this using my left-tilt portable DeWalt table saw from some 2 x 2 stock when I realized I couldn’t do it without tilting my blade to the right (which I can’t).
I was wondering if others could make some suggestions (which tools and sequences) on how they would approach cutting a piece like this.
Thanks.
Replies
Maybe I'm not seeing the difficulty, but although it's no great pleasure it shouldn't be hard to do. If you've got a left-tilt saw you need to cut the profile as the mirror image of your drawing. You've got 2 edges which are parallel. First plane the stock to get to the thickness between those 2 edges. Then you've got 2 separate rips - each at it's own blade angle. That's the whole story.
Am I missing something?
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
I cut a whole buck of coving on a left tilt saw before I read an article that said I couldn't.
Can you route those? multiple passes and your going to sand them anyway?
I wouldn't rout them, but if you've got a tilting spindle shaper you could turn them out easily. The OP said he needed 20' so I wouldn't bother setting up anything except the tablesaw for that quantity.David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
Well, since several of you think I should be able to do it with the left tilt saw, I will have to try it again. I actually tried on several scrapes starting with the different sides and always seemed to end up needing to tilt my blade to the right for some cut. And unfortunately, my saw does not allow me to slide the fence to the other side of the blade.
I looked at it again and now I think I see why it's such a problem - you have two angles less than 90 degrees and two greater than 90 degrees - I think that you will need a saw that WILL allow you to put the fence on either side - otherwise I can't see how you will be able to do both the open and the closed angles.Another thought - if you have a jointer, you might consider this cutting plan - using the 1" side as the base, cut the 7/8" side and then the 1/2" side. Then, using your jointer, or a handplane, cut the 1 1/8" side. Not brilliant, I know, but a thought.
Good luck!
Mike D
Edited 12/29/2008 12:27 am ET by Mike_D
OOps
Sorry about earlier post. I glanced at it and thought you needed coves in the molding, Dahh
You have got a bit of a conundrum there.
2 thoughts.
Your stock can be flipped end for end instead of cutting all from one leading edge.
Use a straight edge and some clamps to make a temporary fence for the other side of the blade.
Let us know how you made out!
BB
When needed, you can usually clamp a wood fence to the opposite side of the blade. If you have a few odd angles, one technique is to turn the work and cut the compliment of the angle. A saw won't tip to 60 degrees but you can cut that bevel by turning the piece on edge and cutting a 30. Other angles may be easier to cut if you reference off a cut bevel rather than the face or edge of the work. You just have to think it through. One cut may be better to start with than another.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
If your saw will not let you place the fence on the other side of the blade, then make a fence that you can clamp to the other side of the blade. I cobbled this bandsaw fence together in about 30 minutes with scraps around the shop. With a little care to make sure it's parallel to the blade, you shouldn't have any troubles. And, the new fence just might be useful to you in the future given your limitations with your tablesaw fence system.
Jeff
In some cases, you just move the fence to the other side of the blade. A left tilt becomes a right tilt. You just have to adjust to the change.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I must be missing something here - if you reverse your image and cut the piece with the saw that you have - and then just turn the piece end for end - isn't it now facing the direction that you need? Have my gyro's tumbled completely?
The first idea that I had was to cut the uppermost angle (according to your picture), then rotate the stock so that it is positioned as shown and cut the two parallel faces.
Brian
I'd start with oversize stock. Fashion a parallelogram by planing to 1" then set the blade to 79 deg and rip one face, turn the stock and rip the other so your stock is twice the finished width plus the width of your kerf. Now set the blade angle for the top face - the 1 1/8" side. If you set your fence right, you can rip the parallelogram down the middle yielding two finished pieces.
Verne
. . . and an afterthought or two. You could use a strip ripped from other stock at the same angle as the last cut - ~ 19 deg. -- as a shim on the face of your fence to support the non-square face that has to run against it. Also, if you have a tilting table bandsaw, making that last cut would be a lot easier -- just clean it up with a plane.
Edited 1/1/2009 6:25 pm ET by Thorvald
I think that if you rotate your drawing 90 degrees counter clockwise you'll immediately see the answer. Looking at it the way it is, is confusing. Doesn't matter which way your blade goes, you only got two angles, and two parallel sides. Your only problem will be stability of the workpiece after you cut the first. You'll have to cut a guide shim to support the work when cutting the second angle.
Thanks everybody! I used a combination of suggestions including Mike D's and Thorvald's to cut the molding and it worked great. The molding was used to replace some rotted molding on some old windows, which I just installed today.
--Ted
If you haven't destroyed the cut-off piece that you were not supposed to cut first, tape it back in place. Make other cuts then remove the tape.
Greg
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Exo 35:30-35
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