Replies

1. 
   dukes909 | Feb 16, 2009 07:12am | #1

   Link should be:

   http://www.konteaki-furniture.co.uk/images/reclaimed-pine-buffet-hutch.gif

2. 
   Jammersix | Feb 16, 2009 07:18am | #2

   I'd use a chop saw.

   If you don't have a chop saw, I would cut it with a panel saw, long, then finish it on a shooting board.

   Good luck!

3. 
   oldusty | Feb 17, 2009 04:42am | #3

        A chop saw will go about 3 1/2" - 4"  tall if it is larger a 10 " sliding compound miter saw will do wonders . An old fashioned miter box with a real saw will do a great job also . 

       The table saw can be used with the aid of sleds and jigs and such , use the miter gauge and miter the ends or a sled to cut flat miters .

                  regards    dusty, who cut a big miter today

1. 
   AZMO | Feb 17, 2009 05:16am | #4

   dusty, who cut a big miter today

   We are on a need to know basis here dusty.... TMI

   However indiscrete he is right, a miter box and hand saw work wonders. Shooting board after if you need it.                  <!----><!----><!---->

   -----------_o

   ---------_'-,>

   -------(*)/ (*)   http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com

1. 
   oldusty | Feb 17, 2009 06:23pm | #5

   AZMO ,

            QSWO planked countertop corner section , in progress .

                The pieces were about 12 " wide each , I had not glued them yet they were just sitting there .

                regards   dusty

   
4. 
   MikeHennessy | Feb 17, 2009 07:51pm | #6

   You mean the skirting and crown? I'd just use my RAS if I was in power mode (a sliding miter saw is an acceptable substitute in this case), or a panel saw and plane if I was in sweat mode. Note that the crown can be undercut a scooch and not be a problem, and the skirting as well, except for at the very top where the joint is visible.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

1. 
   dukes909 | Feb 17, 2009 07:57pm | #7

   Right (I think). The skirting being the base trim? How do you mean undercut it a bit? I have a RAS but not sure I have it tuned well enough to make a be-yoo-ti-ful miter joint.

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Feb 17, 2009 08:14pm | #8

   On a power tool, you'll want to be right on at 45°. I mean, why not?

   If doing it by hand, sans shooting board, I sometimes rough saw it a few degrees fat (46-47°), then carefully trim plane the top 1/2" or so back to exactly 45, and then just plane the rest of the width to 45° or a bit less, not worrying to much if the joint is open a tad in the back. You're good so long as it's tight in the front and at the top. I guess the easiest way to explain it is, when I'm triming to the 45 with the plane, I'm careful to hit 45 at the beginning of the cut, but cheat just a bit to the low side for the rest of the stroke. Open a bit in the back is OK. Open in the front is toast.

   As for tuning the saw, it shouldn't take all that much effort and it'll be worth it in the long run. All you really need is for the carriage to run 90° to the fence. The bevels you can set with a guage against the blade and not worry about the stops being accurate.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   dukes909 | Feb 17, 2009 08:21pm | #9

   Excellent reply - thanks. I'll get to work on my RAS. I wish I had a steady enough hand to do it with a hand saw - those blue handled ones are fun to use. I have a bow saw similar to the Tage Frid one but it needs tuned also...sigh.

5. 
   TonyCz | Feb 17, 2009 10:01pm | #10

   I don't know where the post is I did Monday but here it is again.

   If you have a table saw make up a slide box for it it will give you great support for your material and be very accurate as well.