Replies

1. 
   BenM | Aug 21, 2002 11:58pm | #1

   A handsaw that has fine teeth.

2. 
   andyl18 | Aug 22, 2002 12:36am | #2

   I WOULD SUGGEST IF YOU DRAW A LINE AROUND THE MARGIN THEN CUT LINE USING A JIGSAW .WITH SELECTED BLADE  IN MY OPINION BOSCH ARE EXECELLENT.WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF THE BOX. WHAT DO YOU MAKE . BE CAREFUL  

   
   

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   Edited 8/21/2002 5:38:09 PM ET by woody

1. 
   BG | Aug 22, 2002 01:06am | #4

   I would do what Woody suggested, only maybe I would put a wave in the line..or some kinda curve..

3. 
   SgianDubh | Aug 22, 2002 01:02am | #3

   Funny, this exact same question came up just the other day in another forum, so I've highlighted, copied and I'm pasting essentially the same answer I gave there.

   A traditional method is to mark a line around where you want the top to split off using a marking gauge. Grip the top and bottom of the box in the bench vise with one corner pointing up. Take a tenon saw, preferably a rip tooth pattern and start cutting at the high corner. Once you've got the corner started, follow the line around one side, then the next, etc., rotating the box in the vise as required. Small pre-prepared wedges are pushed into the kerf as you rotate the box to prevent the vise closing the kerf on the saw blade (and free of binding.)

   Finish the edges of the sawn off lid and the body of the box with a large handplane, such as a jack or try plane using a technique called spanning. Simply put, fix the base of the box to a flat surface and with the plane go round and round the sawn edge in one direction, either clockwise or anticlockwise depending on which produces the least grain tear out. The plane 'spans' from a long side to a short side missing sections at first as you find the high spots until you get a last continuous cut around the full circumference. Do the same with the lid. It works much quicker than most people expect after a little practice. For small boxes, instead of spanning the sawn edges with a plane, a coarse piece of abrasive paper can be spray mounted to a flat surface, e.g., glass, and you flatten the edges (i.e., remove high spots) by dropping the box/lid on the paper and use a figure of eight or circular motion. Progress to finer grades to suit. There is a slight tendency to round over the edges and corners with this latter method, but you should be able to live with that."  Slainte, RJ.

   RJFurniture
4. 
   DennisS | Aug 22, 2002 01:49am | #5

   I've simply used a very thin parting tool on the lathe, parting the piece down almost through then finishing with a very fine saw. One of the japanese style saws works very well. (not with the lathe turning, that is) -grin-

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

5. 
   Elcoholic | Aug 22, 2002 02:27am | #6

   I do this all the time on the TS and yes you do have to remove the guard.  If you back-up the cut there won't be a tearout problem.  One trick is to cut 3 sides and then shim the kerfs and clamp the lid to the box before you make the final cut.  That way the lid won't pinch on the blade.

   Another method I read about in a old FWW the other day sounded good but I haven't tried it yet.  The idea was to end up with a rabbet to register the lid on the box.  The method involved using a slot cutter on a router table to plow a dado on the inside of the box before ####'y.  After ####'y offset the cutter height and cut the lid free with the slot cutter.  You end up with a nice rabbeted lid to box joint.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

6. 
   LD | Aug 22, 2002 02:44am | #7

   Although I haven't done it yet, the best idea I have seen is:  set your table saw so that it will cut partially through the box but not completely (i.e. if the sides are 3/4", raise the blade to 5/8").  Set the fence for the the position you want to cut and make the four cuts.  Then finish with a fine toothed hand saw and clean up the edges.  Makes sense to me.

   Dave

7. 
   kcg99999 | Aug 22, 2002 03:42am | #8

   I concur with Dave on his technique, but push the envelope a little and leave a lot less that an eighth. A shy 32nd makes your life easier and gives a cleaner result. You do have to remove the blade guard, but his is a safe operation in that the blade is taking such a light cut there is little chance of kickback.  I cut the lid free with a fine saw and then use an 80 grit sanding block to clean up.  The lesson being, the more you take off with the sawblade the less you have to clean up later.  But it takes a steady and calm hand.

   Hope this helps,

   Kim Carleton Graves
   Carleton Woodworking

8. 
   DennisS | Aug 22, 2002 04:15am | #9

   Hey - sorry for my lame reply. I've been turning lidded stuff on the lathe for the last coupla months and forgot, some people make square boxes, too. (grin)

   And yes, I've cut (square) boxes on a table saw in the manner that's been described. Cut one three sides then clamp or otherwise secure the not yet severed assemply so it remains stable while you cut the last side.

   Also, as was mentioned, be careful. It can be dangerous.

   Dennis in Bellevue WA

   [email protected]

9. 
   Splintie | Aug 22, 2002 12:42pm | #10

   I cut off all my box lids that won't go through the BS with a TS. Start with cutting a shorter side, if it's a rectangle, so you end up with a long side, and a more stable cut. Keep the lid to the outside of the cut, i.e. box body next to fence so you don't get a narrow lid pinched between blade and fence. I don't use a shim for the last cut bec the lid falls away from the blade at the very end; i push only on the box body without pinching the lid to the body, catching the lid as it falls.

   I've done a few hundred of these so i don't use a miter guage to push them through, but it would be advisable for a beginner. I set the blade depth to just the height of the box side thickness.