Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Mar 07, 2008 07:52am | #1

   I wouldn't seal it in plastic, as that has a nasty habit of trapping moisture inside the sealed enclosure. Do you have a covered porch or other such place out of the rain? That would be the best thing. I would rig up a cardboard box (or maybe a "crate" with a wooden frame of 1x2s and cardboard panels) and put it inside that, with a large container of silica gel (you can get an appropriate one from Lee Valley for about $15), then seal up the box good and tight with packing tape. Keep the box where it won't get hit by rain or splashed with water, and it should be good for a month or so, at which point you should open it up and check/regenerate the silica gel.

   Of course, you should clean and wax and lubricate everything before packing it up.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   BriMcG | Mar 07, 2008 08:51am | #2

   Thanks Steve, You just gave me the best idea. Put it aside till the new saw gets here and repack it in the crate and cardboard from the new saw.

   You know, with what I do for a living I should have known not to put it in plastic. I'm a crime scene tech with the local PD and we NEVER put evidence in plastic. What was I thinking? Thanks!

   Brian

2. 
   harrycu | Mar 07, 2008 09:42am | #3

   I'll store it for ya...no charge.

   Harry

    

   Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.
1. 
   BriMcG | Mar 07, 2008 10:05pm | #6

   Getting to the point that that sounds tempting. Starting to think I'll donate it to a school or something. Thanks for the offer!

   Brian

3. 
   [email protected] | Mar 07, 2008 05:46pm | #4

   Build a large torsion box mobile base, and bolt it on as the left wing of your new saw, and leave it set up with a dado blade.

   The result is the size of a suburban, but could come in handy if you make large case goods.   

1. 
   BriMcG | Mar 07, 2008 10:03pm | #5

   Ummm...OK, thanks.

1. 
   saschafer | Mar 07, 2008 10:07pm | #7

   I didn't understand it, either. ;-)

   -Steve

    

1. 
   [email protected] | Mar 07, 2008 10:51pm | #8

   It is something I have seen in a few small production shops.  They bolt the two saws together, (using the bolt holes where the wings attach), to save on space, and leave one with the dado blade installed.  But, you could also leave one saw with a rip blade and the other with a fine toothed crosscut if you wanted. 

   Typically the extra saw is bolted in on the right side to allow utilization of the same fence.  But it would work on the left, if you increased the length of the fence rails.  Also, with the extra saw mounted on the right, (most contractor's saws are right tilt), it gives you quite a bit of room to it's left to make bevel cuts if you want. 

   I have also seen old table saw tops bolted on as wings, and one modified to be a router table / wing. 

   I haven't run across any 27-inch deep tables that don't have the bolt holes for the wings in the same place.  (Which isn't to say there aren't some out there, just that I haven't seen them.)  Which means you can bolt most of them together if you want.   

1. 
   BriMcG | Mar 08, 2008 07:52am | #9

   Thanks Jigs. Didn't realize that most contractors saws were right tilt. I'll take a left tilt anyday. Always thought that right tilters were preferred by the folks that have done this for a long time cause left tilting saws were relatively new.

   Thx again, brian

2. 
   [email protected] | Mar 08, 2008 10:34am | #10

   Saw blades are pretty consistent on how much the set is offset from the plane of the blade at the center.  So, the distance from the arbor tot he edge of the blade is pretty consistent. 

   With a right tilt, with the fence on the right;  The fence stays indexed to the face of the arbor.  So, the fence stays very close to zero, regardless of what blade is installed.  With a left tilt, every time you change the blade width, the zero of a fence on the right changes.  Put in a dado blade set and it is so far off it's useless. 

   And, since for most right handers, pushing the stock forward with the right hand while keeping it lined up, and against the fence with the left feels safer.  Fences are typically set up to the right of the blade. 

   So, the right tilt made / makes more sense, as it keeps the fence zeroed to the arbor, and thus the edge of the blade. 

   I guess if you have one of the digital fences, it becomes a non issue though.

    

3. 
   BriMcG | Mar 09, 2008 08:45pm | #11

   Yea, digital would be nice but a good Starret works just fine.

   Thx, Brian

4. 
   peteryu65 | Mar 10, 2008 02:50am | #12

   You know what, just don't remove the plastic sheet that goes over the cast iron. Underneath the plastic is a layer of rust-preventative goo that may not look pretty but does a good job of sealing off moisture. when the raining season ends, just wipe off the goo with some mineral spirits(kerosene is recommended but it is too flammable!)and enjoy your PM2000 (though i would have gotten a Sawstop for a bit more money)

1. 
   BriMcG | Mar 10, 2008 07:51am | #13

   Thanks my Friend, Yes, Saw Stop would have been nice and I will have no one to blame IF it happens....I'll just stay VERY vigilent..or try.

   Why doesn't EVERY manufactuer have it. What..80-90 bucks to replace a piece of machinery if I make contact?  And money WELL spent of course.But a thousand on top of the retail price...on a semi decent saw?

   I KNOW...finger VS price... But I'm not the only one here thinking PRICE VS "Oh I'll be OK". What am I missing here? Semi-Decent saw with one HUGE attribute and the machine costs 40% more? Come on PowerMatic! I would certainley pay a few hundred extra for a HUGE safety device like that. Am I the only one thinking this way? Of course not.

   Sorry Folks, I know this has been covered before but Darn!!!

   Brian

   Edited 3/10/2008 1:04 am ET by BriMcG