Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Apr 06, 2009 03:42am | #1

   Can't comment on the article. How are you cutting the laps? Using the miter bar? Are you using a bare metal miter bar? Either adding a wood fence and/or gluing some sandpaper to the face will keep your work from slipping. This is assuming you have tuned the saw so the miter bar runs parallel with the blade and the miter head is set up for a square cut.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   rmw080903 | Apr 06, 2009 03:45am | #2

   I am cutting them on a table saw with dado blades, since the joint does not go completly through it cuts deeper on the bottom side of the board due to the curved blades. Even when I raise my blades to full height they it still cuts deep on the bottom side.

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 06, 2009 04:16am | #3

   I'm a little confused. 

   Are you saying that the cuts you're making are stopped part way thru the board and you need to square off the ends of the troughs?  If so then I'd say chisel them square but I should think a router might make it a lot less work.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   Thorvald | Apr 06, 2009 04:30am | #4

   I read the article, and I'm still not clear about the problem you're running into.  Are you using your dado setup to remove the waste inside the joint?  If so, I would recommend a different approach like the author describes or an alternate arrangement with the tablesaw. 

   Maybe you could give us a better description of your process.

   Verne

   If a tree falls in the forest, and no one is there to cut it up and make something with it . . . what a waste!

1. 
   rmw080903 | Apr 06, 2009 04:55am | #5

   yes that is excatly what I am doing, but I guess I am missing something in the articale. I have read it seveal times, and maybe I am just not used to the termenology he is using???????????????

1. 
   Thorvald | Apr 06, 2009 06:20am | #6

   I see where you're trying to go.  No matter how you set that up, you aren't going to get a square end to the notch you're cutting.  You'll have to set it up so that your stop ends the cut in about the right place on the underside, then break out a chisel and square it up by hand. Verne

   If a tree falls in the forest, and no one is there to cut it up and make something with it . . . what a waste!<!----><!----><!---->

1. 
   rmw080903 | Apr 06, 2009 08:14pm | #7

   that makes more sense, thanks for all your help. This is a great site with great people to help someone just getting started in the hobbie like me, well worth the money paid for the membership!

1. 
   RalphBarker | Apr 08, 2009 03:39am | #8

   The graphic in the article seems to indicate that he's leaving the curved section of the dado-set cut as-is, and relying on the depth of the uprights to extend beyond that to the full thickness of the shelves. The through cut of the dado set, what you can see from above, extends to the point that correspond to the notch in the upright. Also, dados on the uprights prevent the back of the shelves from tipping forward. In other words, I don't think it's intended to be squared.

2. 
   Thorvald | Apr 08, 2009 04:20am | #9

   'tis possible, but I wouldn't do it that way.  Only takes a few minutes with a chisel to square them up at the right place leaving a stronger joint. Verne

   If a tree falls in the forest, and no one is there to cut it up and make something with it . . . what a waste!<!----><!----><!---->

3. 
   MikeIke | Apr 08, 2009 05:22pm | #10

   Hello. I built this same set shortly after the article appeared. I used a router, and had pretty good luck. The advice I would pass on is that you shouldn't try for too tight a fit, as there is a lot of stock to fit one to another, and you will appreciate having some "forgiveness" to the joinery. It will look great. I built this several years ago and with all the book on it, the shelves do not sag to this day.