Replies

1. 
   RMillard | May 04, 2004 09:44pm | #1

   I’ve made many inlays that are sand shaded for the federal furniture I make. I use a small hot plate and iron skillet, to heat the sand. I place the hot plate on a board, because it once got my workbench top so hot that it distorted it in the small area where the hot plate set. I use the sand sold as a paint additive, because it has a very fine and even texture, which makes for more controlled shading . There is nothing complicated about the process, and it is easily learned after just a short trial and error process.

   On very small pieces, I dip them in the sand and check  frequently to see how things are going. On larger pieces, I drag them through the sand. This dragging is quicker, but can get out of hand if you’re not careful, while the dipping is slow but far less risky. If you drag the piece through the sand like cutting into the sand you will get a nice controlled shading that is confined to the extreme edge (great for making fans) . If you drag the piece like sweeping the sand from side to side, you’ll get a much more aggressive shading, probably because more air is getting to the wood. I use both the cutting and dragging methods, depending on the size of the piece and the effect I’m after. Holly and satinwood shade nicely, with holly being quite forgiving as it doesn’t seem to char easily. Maple is also a good wood for this, but you must keep a constant check on it as it will char quickly. These are the only 3 types of wood I've used. Once you char a piece, it’s headed for the trash. I believe the federal candle stand I made with a sand shaded eagle, is still in the gallery section on this website.

   Rob Millard

2. 
   jcousins | May 05, 2004 12:56am | #2

   i use hot sand for marquetry work - which gives the illusion of dimension. i do use homemade veneers that are 5/64" (quite a bit stouter than store bought).

   but even on the thicker pieces be careful about charring to such an extent that the would becomes "deformed" - crisped on the edge - which will just crumble away.

   practice with each species so you get a feel for how much heat will do what for each piece.

   also know that once the piece is finished and you do the finish sanding some of the shading will be sanded away - so sometimes you might need to darken the piece beyond what you think you will need for the finished piece - again it's a matter of practice.

   some of the oiler woods tend to cause the sand particles to cling to the piece when you heat them - so a small artist paint brush is good for cleaning before you glue it down.

   hope this helps - jerry

   jerry