If I buy a L-N iron miter plane for my shooting board, should I get the side knob or the hot dog attachment? Why?
Thanks,
Alan – planesaw
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast -
Our favorite articles and videos -
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Hi Alan, the only option when I got mine was the knob. Never saw the point in spending the extra for the hotdog, though in use it is more comfy.
As far as I know, the #9 now comes with the hotdog and you need to request that they drill/tap for the kob hole--but not sure they provide the knob. Should email them for clarification.
Take care, Mike
At one point I heard rumors that the hotdog would be standard on all LN #9's. But the web site still shows the hot dog as an added feature. You might want to give LN a call to clarify.
I purchased the #9 with both the side knob and hot dog. After using both, I prefer the hot dog. It is more comfortable, and it automatically positions your hand in the best place to minimize tipping the plane, while still maintaining side pressure. The only drawback is that if you are shooting on the right side of your shooting board, and want to move to the left (e.g. for miters), you have to find your hex key to loosen the hotdog and move it to the other side. With the knob, you just unscrew it by hand. But, I typically only shoot on the right side of the board anyway, so it isn't a big deal.
From the LN web site:
The Hot dog attachment for the Number 9 Miter plane is a tubular handle designed for comfort in shooting board applications. It is shipped with the tool and can be purchased separately. It is compatible with older generation miter planes.
I wrote Tom about the knob. His reply was upon request they would drill and tap for the knob. The knob is all but necessary if, like me, the plane is used on a miter jack or donkey's ear.
Take care, Mike
The LN reps at the woodworking show said that the hotdog is now standard. The knob is no longer included.
Matt,
My memory is made of woodchips so they don't retain long. I may have asked before, but I am in Central PA, what part are you (assuming MattinPA means Pennsylvania)?
Alan - planesaw
Edited 3/8/2007 7:41 pm ET by Planesaw
Planesaw--where in Central PA? I'm from DuBois.
TonyZ,
Right in the Capital area.
Alan - planesaw
You'll be right handy to the Brown auction and tool sale the last weekend of March.
TonyZ,
Indeed, too handy!! I was short a few (hundredthousandplus) bucks or I would have had that $114,000 plane a couple years ago. :-)
Yes, it is nice to be close to some good tool auctions; but it is also problematic being close to some good tool auctions.
Probably too late as I just thought of it, but our local woodworking group (SAW-PA, Susquehanna Area Woodworkers-Pennsylvania) could have organized or hosted a casual reception the evening before the auction for woodworkers to meet one another.
Alan - planesaw
Edited 3/9/2007 9:10 pm ET by Planesaw
I go on Friday for the dealer sale and just to drool over the auction goods. I've actually done quite well looking for tools I need at prices better than _bay at the dealer sales.
Same goes for MJD's auctions and sales. Don't have the sizzle of the _bay auction, but you are able to buy a tool of a known condition at excellent prices. As a sidenote, I would suggest anyone trolling sales such as these to utilize Clarence Blanchard's new books: Tools Field Guide and Stanley Little Big Book. Both are excellent field and price guides.
To keep this post germane to the LN mitre plane, I've been on the fence to order one for several months. I've been using my LN 62 on my shooting board, but I've notice a tendency to "lift" occassionally. I'm hoping the larger registration size of the mitre plane will cure that issue. My desire to buy this plane goes back multiple years to when the knobs were standard. At that time, I would have purchased the optional hot dog handle. At this time, I may have the holes drilled and tapped to use the now optional knobs! Decisions, decisions, decisions and soo little cash!
Thanks Mike and Houston Appreciate your thoughts and information. I have a feeling comfort on a shooting board is going to be the key issue.
Alan - planesaw
Alan
Mine has the knob, and I've grown quite accustomed to it. I hook my thumb around it, and am able to maintain comfortable pressure both down, and towards the stock I'm shooting.
The tool is so nice to work with that I doubt you'd care one way or the other. Changing the knob is a snap, requiring no tools. Just unscrew, and screw it in on the other side. It takes 10 seconds.
Of course, you'll want to make new shooting boards and donkeys ears out of cherry just so that they all match!! <g>
Jeff
I just recently bought the hot dog for my LN No. 9
I actually don't care for it. There's not really enough room to wrap my big fat fingers around it because the lever cap is in the way. I can sorta wedge my fingertips between the two but it forces my hand into an awkward position. So in the drawer it goes...the knob is nice because I can set my thumb against it.
David C.
Maybe somebody can invent a miter plane that will fit a miter slot equipped shooting board
Metod
No problem. Here is one of mine (currently under restoration).
View Image
View Image
Stanley #51/52 (if did not know).
Regards from Perth
Derek
Metod
Hopefully Mike Wenzoff will see this and post a pic of his (wooden) shooting board. His has a fence along the runway to support and guide the plane.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Ears were burning. But have to run...
http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/temp/shootboards_0007.jpg
Take care, Mike
Mike,
Would you take a few lines and tells us about the shootingboard in your photo? Please???!!!
Thanks,
Alan - planesaw
Hi Alan and All,
Not much to tell. The design is an older design. Bench hook holds it during use. The construction is a piece of 18 mm Baltic Birch ply with a layer of tempered hardboard [THB] overpaying the entire top surface.
The center section is yet another layer which goes up to the fixed 90 degree fence. The fence is made of a few layers of the same BB ply. Another piece of the THB is behind the fixed fence.
The "head" which is nearest in the picture is a removable 45 degree head. The two steel pins beside it are inserted through the holes you see on the top of the miter head and into the board itself. Those are made from 3/8" steel rod.
I have another head or two I made up to hold other angles which are not shown.
In use, the raised center keeps the plane from continuing to cut into the center section because a bench plane or the No. 9 planes do not have their blades extending all the way to the edge of the plane. That left over 3/16" to the side of the blade or so continues to hold it away. So after the first passes as the blade shaves the raised center and the fixed and or mitered fences, the blade stops cutting into them.
In use, it is important to not use the depth adjustment to take a great amount off of the piece being shot. Else the plane will also take more of the raised center piece and or the mitered blocks. Advancing the stock being shot is what needs to be done.
Hope this is clear...Take care, Mike
Mike,
Thanks for the additional info. I made my first shootingboard not that long ago after reading several articles. Went out and bought Baltic birch ply, got back home and thought -- Okay Alan. This is your first. Mistakes and first time go hand in hand. Why not use mdf to work out the bugs? So, I did. Turns out it works so well I don't when or if I'll make one out of baltic.
Actually, I probably will in the next few months as I want a fixed 90 and a fixed 45. Probably will experiment with an adjustable angle-arm also. However, I do like the way you have left and right taken care of with a one piece right or left 45 also.
Alan - planesaw
Metod,
Keen observation! I may have to try the "slot" also, if Jeff says it is and that it works.
Alan - planesaw
Metod
No, it doesn't ride in a slot. It's a flat ledge that is waxed, with a small groove where it meets the upper section, so that sawdust doesn't force the miter plane out of square. I personally don't see the need for a slot or groove for the plane to ride in. With a minimal amount of hand pressure and a sharp blade, the setup works perfectly. Remember that you are shooting endgrain, and are taking a pretty light cut. I cut my miters on the tablesaw or chopsaw, and it only takes 2 or 3 passes to shoot them perfect.
Jeff
Metod
While a Stanley #51/52 shooting board is probably the most desirable of all such tools, this does not mean that it is the only alternative, or even the best, out there.
Even when I have completed a full restoration, along with a few updates (such as a thicker and more modern blade and cap iron), it will have to be working very well to do better than my ramped shooting board. Essentially this is just a guide and a suitable plane for shooting (see http://www.wkfinetools.com/contrib/dCohen/z_art/whatPlane/whatPlan.asp ).
A ramped shooting board is also not essential, but if you are prepared to put in a little extra time and effort, you will find that it is a little more pleasurable to use (mainly that the added "skew" is less jarring when the blade enters the wood).
View Image
View Image
Regards from Perth
Derek
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled