Hitachi 3 1/2 HP router – thumbs up/dn
My little 2 1/4 HP Ryobi that I got > 20 years ago finally died (in the middle of a cut).
I like the Hitachi (especialy for the money < $200).
What do you say?
- Thumbs up
- Thumbs down
- Alternative
and why?
Thx.
Roger aka Mr. SQL
Replies
I've had the M12V in my router table for several years and it's been totally trouble free. Only occasional maint. of a cleaning with the air hose and that's about it! So thumbs up...
Jon
Edited 10/20/2009 6:11 pm by Jon
Thumbs up! I have two of them and would get a third if I had the money!!!
I have a m12 Its a new model. I have it mounted in a router table.
I also have a tr12, Its an older model without a soft start moter or speed control but it cuts beutifully!
Chaim
Chaim,
Also have a TR12 mounted in a table. Added the Router Raizer last winter (Hey it was easy peasy to do, even for me). Isn't variable speed but sure is a workhorse. I've had mine for over 22 years and just as good as new today.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
What do you plan to do with it? It's on the big side for hand use, is plenty powerful for table use but doesn't offer any above table features. As an alternative, the Freud FT3000 has a long collet that extends through the table and allows one handed above table bit changes.
mostly router table work. I will do some hand held shaping of walnut hand rails and perhaps some plunge cuts using jigs.
I do have a smaller fixed base Porter Cable that I use for most hand work.
I looked at the Freud, but thought it was a bit pricey in comparison.
Thx.
Roger [aka Mr.SQL]
As others have noted, the M12 is a good machine. I've had one in my router table, and out on a few jobs too, for five or six years.
Plenty of power, variable speed makes it versatile, plunge base adds to that.
There are some drawbacks (fair trade for the price, IMO).
As others have said, if it's in a table, all bit changes must be done below the table. (I solved this by making my table's mounting plate easily lifted with router attached. Bingo -- bit changes above table height).
And I have noticed on occasion that the plunge rails seem to get just a little 'sticky'. When it happens, height adjustments and plunging are affected. But its a simple fix to lube the rails, and move on with the fun.
Oh -- and like most routers, good dust collection seems virtually impossible.
I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)
I have a nice 12x12 or so square of 3/8" plexiglass that I was planning on using for the base so that I would put that in the table similar to what you describe.
Is leaving the base square better than cutting it into a rectangle?
wold you recommend making the base just big enough or keep it 12x12?
thx.
Roger
My base is made from 1/2" thick plywood (the good stuff, not the cheap stuff from a home center). (And yes, the extra thickness of my plate has been an issue a few times. But VERY few.)To be honest, I'd be a bit concerned about the strength of plexi compared to the weight of a big-boy router. The "dead-load" aspect of the router weight might cause some sagging. (Might not -- but be aware and check after yourself as you go.)The opening in my table (and therefore the plate) is rectangular, and I added an "indexing boss" -- something that forces me to put the plate back into the opening in the same orientation each time. I wanted it that way so that I would always know where each of the router's controls would be, every time I reached for one of them.So far as the size of the plate is concerned -- if you're making your own, you need to find the balance between ease of install versus strength. A large plate makes it very easy to get the thing in and out of the table -- but it fosters the sagging that I mentioned.A smaller plate will be stronger, and a bit more difficult to fit back into the table.FWIW, I made mine tight in one direction, and "loose" in the other, hoping that the small dimension (front-to-back) would reduce/eliminate the sagging issues, while the extra couple of inches in the other direction would enable enough wiggling to make the mounting easy.I'll bet that if you do the same with your piece of plexi, it could work just fine.I also added a switched-power-cord to the mix, so that the length of the router's power cord would never be an issue; And because I can use the cord's switch (which is foot-actuated) as the router on-off switch.When I need to change bits, I pull the plug of the switched cord from the wall. Then I push the router and plate up from the bottom. I grab the plate from above, and pull the assembly up onto the table. Usually I lay the assembly on its side, allowing access to both the collet and the router height control.I change the bit and tighten the collet. Then, while the assembly is above the table, still laying on its side, I set the height of the bit as close as I can to the height I want.Then I drop the assembly back into the table -- making sure that sawdust hasn't obstructed anything, hasn't left the plate sitting high.I re-check the bit height, and adjust as needed. At that point, I do a safety double-check, and plug the beast back into the wall.It may sound complex, but it's actually quite simple. And when my original table-mounted router bit the dust, I bought a much bigger router and needed to rebuild the entire table. And when I did, I did it the same way the second time around.
I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)
Your plate sounds a lot like mine except I used a ΒΌ" x 12" x 12" aluminum plate. Routed out the mortise for the plate, (this was a bit tricky) and sized the hole in the mortise so the handles would fit through the tabletop.
Differences include 4 plate adjustment screws in all 4 corners of the mortise and the Router Raizer ($62 fromGrizzly). Still have to pop out the plate to change bits but height adjustment is a breeze. It also serves as an alignment aid for remounting the plate.
Nice thing about the raizer is that it also works when freehanding if you need to do that. I bought the Bosch combo kit (fixed & plunge bases) for freehanding though. Yes I sucumbed (sp?) to tool lust but hey, a mans gotta do what a mans gotta do.
Regards, Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
And one more thought that didn't occur to me before postting the first time.........If you can think of a way to incorporate varying-size bit-hole-bushings into your router plate, it would be a very good thing.Certainly you've heard all the talk about how a zero-clearance insert is good for a tablesaw, a bandsaw, and for other machines. The bit-hole-bushings work the same way for a router table plate.(This assumes that you, like many of us, will eventually be using one of those amazingly-large panel raising bits. If so, the hole in your table plate will need to be bigger than that bit's diameter. But you will, of course, still need to use the table and plate for delicate 3/8" roundover work on the small pieces.)I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)
Yes, i was thinking about that too. I use a shaper for panel raising, but i find the router simpler and easier and more cost effective for the few mouldings I make.
Router came on Friday. working on setting it up in the table. it works great.
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