Replies

1. 
   BG | Oct 22, 2008 12:15am | #1

   GalenaJoe,

   I made mine of Walnut and Maple, finish was lacquer. The lacquer has yellowed, perhaps I should have used water based poly.

   I also did not want a veneer thick top so I needed to make it thick enough to spline it into the frame. I went with 1/2" thick but would suggest 3/4" and spline in the lower third. For movement I use a generous 1/4" per lin. ft.

2. 
   mike4244 | Oct 22, 2008 04:38am | #2

   Use veneer ,not solid wood. Cut 2 1/4" wide strips with the grain.Veneer tape alternating species together to make a zebra effect. The veneer tape goes on the good face.Now you have 4 light and 4 dark alternate strips taped up.Cut across the grain 2 1/4" 8 times. You could do this with a veneer saw and straight edge, or on the table saw with a jig that holds the veneer flat. If I were you,I would cut by hand with a veneer saw. There is a saw with about 32 teeth per inch, it is small and the blades are throwaways. I can't think of the name but they are sold in craft stores,the handles take refill blades. This saw is slow as heck,but very neat and accurate.In the end, using this saw instead of a veneer saw will save you time and aggravation.

   Using veneer tape, tape the strips together, the light stock will be the right corner at the bottom. Then alternate ,dark ,light etc.You will have 8 strips with alternating veneers.You alternate the strips and you will see the chessboard. I make the grain run the way the pawns move. When everything is taped up, you are ready to glue.

   I use hot hide glue, it is reversible and does not creep. I always use mdf for a base,glue on mdf and let it cool. I place the veneer on the mdf and use masking tape to hold down "one" edge only.I heat the veneer with a heat gun and roll it with a laminate roller.I heat and roll from the center out to the edge.Then remove the masking tape and repeat going towards the taped edge.

   I have attempted to use solid squares in the past. Looked great for a while, then cupping and everything else you could imagine wrecked the board. I gave it away and then made the board from shop sawn veneer.

   mike

1. 
   galenajoe | Oct 22, 2008 04:58am | #3

      Thanks for the info. I was concerned about the solid wood warping. I'll need to get the hide glue but I have everything else.

        Joe

1. 
   mike4244 | Oct 22, 2008 05:47am | #4

   Joe, I use a cheap Rival ($10.00) crockpot for heating water for hide glue. I cut a top from mdf, took the knob off the glass top and installed it on the mdf. Cut a notch for a brush and a 3/8" diameter hole for a candy thermometer.I  use a glass jar to hold the hide glue. The jar has a tendency to float when most of the glue is used up. A better way would to weigh down a container that won't float. I'm thinking a 1/2" of lead poured into the bottom of a can, or something similar.Try to keep the glue at 135 °.

   When the glue cools down and your done for the day, refrigerate the glue and it will keep for about a week. I have frozen glue that I knew I wouldn't be using for a while.

   mike