Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Dec 24, 2008 09:11pm | #1

   A repair for sand through is very difficult and generally only done by professional repair or refinishing shops.

   Here is a process used by many.

   Do apply your stain just as though there were no problem. Then, when the stain is dry, "draw" the damaged grain back on the spot where you have exposed the plywood core. This is done by using a selection of soft artist color pencils selected to match your stained oak. Here, briefly, is the process:

   Select a pencil that will match the lightest color that you can see in your table. Begin by "scribbling" this pencil over the damaged area. Follow this by then "smudging" the pencil with your finger tip to blend the color over the area. Then, "seal" this color with a bit of clear aerosol shellac.

   The shellac will dry very quickly; 25-minutes or so. When it is dry lightly sand to smooth the area and reach for the next pencil—one the color of the stain as it appears in the dense latewood of your oak table. Using a bit more care, draw the grain lines in such a way as to connect them across the damaged area. Again, smudge the drawing, this time a bit less than before. You want to still see the lines; you just don't want them to appear "sharp". When you are satisfied with your work, seal this drawing as well.

   Lightly sand again when dry and reach for the last pencil—this one chosen to match the color of the stain in the open grain of the earlywood (the darker areas of stain). Repeat the smudging process and the sealing step. Your "glitch" should now be nearly invisible.

   At any stage in the process, if you don't like what you see, erase and begin again. When the grain is drawn in to your satisfaction and sealed with the last aerosol coat of shellac, proceed with your topcoat. Semi-gloss or satin will be most effective in masking any lingering problems with your artwork.

   I find the "pencil technique" much easier to apply and reverse, if necessary, than using oil or acrylic paints. The process also goes much faster...

   Finally, sanding todays thin veneer plywood is always risky. Plywood is sanded to about 180 grit by the mill. Other than a very light sanding with 180 grit paper, it should not be further sanded. First get on a couple of coats of finish. Then sand as you will be sanding the finish, not the thin decorative ply.

   Howie.........
1. 
   wajacobs | Dec 24, 2008 09:26pm | #2

   Thanks, I'll give the pencil trick a try. I had the surface already to finish and a drywall contractor managed to get an oily smudge on it.  I would normally have given it only a slight 220 sanding but that damn stain.

    

   -Wes