I am going to be building a 5′ tall doll cabinet of mahogany frames with glass panels. There will be one door in the center front with a front panel on either side of it. The side panels will be glass in frames as well. The back panel will be hardwood frames with 1/4″ mahogany ply for the panels. All the frame stiles/rails will be 2″ wide.
Is there a preferred method for attaching the side and front panels (and side and back panels as well) together? I realize there’s probably not one right answer, and I’ve seen arguments for and against T&G, dowels, biscuits, rabbets, pocket holes, etc. I’ve used biscuits for built-ins, bookcases, and other cabinets but never on fine furniture.
If this is to be considered an heirloom project (as I would like it to be), is there a “best” way? Is there a traditional way?
Thanks, and I appreciate all the feedback I can get.
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Replies
gremlin,
I built a similar piece a few years back. I simply butted and glued the front stiles to the sides, after the front and side frames were assembled. It's a long grain glue surface, no need for dowels, pins, pocket screws, or biscuits, in my opinion. Unless you feel a need for help in alignment during glue up.
Consider making the side frame's stiles that abut the front frame narrower than the others, to allow for the thickness of the front frame. In other words, if your stiles are 2", and the stock is 7/8"thick, the two stiles that get glued to the front frame should be 1 1/8" wide, to make 2" when glued to the 7/8"thick front. If you can match the grain across the joint, it'll be inconspicuous.
I rabbeted the rear stiles of the side frames, to accept the back, after assembly. I finished the cabinet, installed the glass, then put the back frame in place. I used screws to attach it, to make acess for replacement of any broken glass easier.
Regards,
Ray
Any joinery that gets the job done, is strong and looks good, is good. That’s how Tage Frid would have looked at it. Also, if tradition is an issue, lose the plywood back.
Fair point. I had actually considered using hardwood panels instead of plywood, and may still reconsider.
Thanks
I built a repro of a china press a few years ago using mitered joints for the styles on the front corners. Both pieces,front and side,are made from the same piece of stock,and are both the same width. The stock must be straight,of even thickness,and all edges parallel.I use the bandsaw set up to make the rip cut down the center of the strip. This takes less out of the grain pattern and is easier for me to do.The sawed edges can now be beveled to 45 degrees by whatever method you are most comfortable with.
I use the tape method to assemble the 2 parts for glue up. When carefully done,the grain pattern will be contineous around the front post.With careful stock selection,the grain pattern on the 2 front posts can be made to be opposite each other.
Thank you,Mr.Croney,where ever you may be.
Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
Edited 10/14/2004 12:28 pm ET by Pat
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