I’m making a new table for my young family – the top is made from Bubinga. I’ve finished it with danish oil and I love how it’s coming out… but I’m wondering what’s a good finish that can take a lot of abuse. I imagine we’ll clean it with a sponge and dinisfecting wipes and we sure won’t be using coasters…
Any ideas on a good finish? I was thinking poly or lacquer, but don’t really understand the differences and implications.
I don’t have any spray equipment, but have considered getting the $90 HVLP from Rockler for this project. I also picked up a $7 aerosol spray can of minwax lacquer at Home Depot today – was going to try that on a scrap… any thoughts on just buying a few cans of that stuff instead of a whole HVLP rig?
Thanks a ton!
Matt
Replies
If coasters are too challenging, then forget lacquer. It's one of the finishes that develop white rings with too much water for too long.
You can use the Danish oil--which is an oil/varnish mix, though you will have to renew it periodically, and you may get some marks and mottles over time. It is an "in-the-wood" finish and can't be allowed to build a film because it would be too soft to be practical. For casual styles this is great, and if the finish isn't super protective, it is super easy to repair.
If you want a film finish, that would also be more protective, I'd go with an oil based varnish. For a relatively dark wood I like to go with a phenolic resin varnish. Choices include Behlen Rockhard or the basic Waterlox varnishes, w3hich come in Satin, Original/Sealer (semi-gloss) and Gloss version. I prefer these varnishes to "poly" which is an alkyd varnish with some added polyurethane resin which mostly gives it the abrasion resistance needed for floors, but which makes it harder to get a good even sheen when rubbing out, and which also makes it a bit harder to repair and restore when it is damaged.
Steve, thanks for the advice - glad to get the warning about the lacquer!
For those oil based varnishes - is it best to spray or can you put it on by hand?
Thanks again!!
Matt
Generally best to apply by hand. Oil-based varnish dries too slowly to be easily sprayed. The overspray drifts and coats everything with a crusty mess, including the object being sprayed unless you have sufficient steady airflow to control the overspray. You can brush varnish, though lots of people prefer to use it thinned as a wiping varnish.
A wipe on or brushed on varnish will look great when new and will be quite durable but it isn't bomb or kid proof. You may find that you may be overly protective of this nice finish and turn into an ogre. Personally, I'd go with multiple coats of your danish oil. Renew this periodically by rubbing with steel wool and not sanding. The process will seal in a beautiful kid induced patina. Something that money can't buy. It's your family table, it deserves to age with your children.
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