Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Aug 22, 2009 09:34pm | #1

        Hi miserybob ,

                Welcome to Knots ,

                    When you said "crack at it" I hope it didn't break.

          Will this frame be on a wall or in front of a window or ?

        Remember how they had mirrors on top of dressers and shaving mirrors ?

                Depending on how you want to display the glass you could make a frame or stand to mount the frame to . It could swivel like a mirror or ?

      I use the keyhole slots on some heavy pieces they work fine when you can hit studs .

         When you post a picture you are supposed to reduce the size of the image to a low # of kb like 55 is real low and loads fast. The pics that have not been resized are too huge sometimes , scroll image  icon before opening see the size.

                  regards from Oregon           dusty

   
1. 
   miserybob | Aug 22, 2009 10:51pm | #3

   Thanks, Dusty!  I think I figured out the photo problem - here is my first panel (no cracks, lol!) in a more manageable size (although it shows off my poor photoshopping - something else I need to work on!).

   I think this next piece will be window-hung, too, so both sides need to be finished.  I haven't done a circular frame, so I'm worried about the weight issue - I assume the frame is biscuited together and then the curve is cut, but I don't know if biscuits will hold the weight (and I'm not 100% sure how heavy the finished piece will be). 

   Thanks again,

   Chris

    

   
2. 
   SawdustSteve | Aug 22, 2009 10:48pm | #2

   Hi Chris... Construction of the frame depends on several things, first being the weight of the glass & leading. Second is the width you want the frame to be. You are most likely looking at a segmented frame with eight or more segments. If the frame is fairly wide, use dowels to strenggthen the joints, otherwise small bisquits. Since my wife does stained glass, I've gone on shopping trips to her glass supplier. They have flexible brass channeling (caming) that uou can solder around the rim to strengthen it, and to serve as an anchor for a supporting wire or chain that you can use to hang the project. Yes, a 24"diam glass circle has some weight to it, but not THAT MUCH that it can not hang from a single 'picture hook.' Not to get you away from an interesting woodworking project, but check with your stained glass supplier and see if they have frames to fit 'standard' size circles.

   As a side note, I bought my wife a ring saw as a present. I've used it like a scroll saw and have turned out a few interesting projects, just for fum.

   SawdustSteve

1. 
   miserybob | Aug 22, 2009 11:06pm | #4

   Thanks, Steve - I think that confirms my general thoughts on the frame.  The stained glass store I deal with (I'm a newbie) doesn't really have a frame supplier - I'm hoping to fill that void!

   Ring saw - nice!  Those little buggers are expensive.  I've been thinking about picking one up, but I can't really justify the cost right now. 

   I've really enjoyed doing the stained glass.  It's a lot of fun - but a lot of work, as well!

   Chris

   ps - is there a way to "quote" another user's message in the reply?  Or is it just old-fashioned cut and paste?  Thanks!

1. 
   SawdustSteve | Aug 23, 2009 01:47am | #5

   Hi Chris.... Here's my secret... Wait until the ring saw is on sale (my guy in NY has a sale every 4 to 6 months and need a tool for yourself. So... wife got the ring saw and I got the belt sander I needed. Google 'Stained Glass Supplies'. There are lots of guys out there, sometimes well hidden from sight, but they're around. See what they have in their online catalogs. Lots of good stuff to be had. We're looking at intarsia (scrollsaw) patterns for use in glass. I find them better than the very standard glass patterns, different subjects, different color schemes.And.... yea, 'cut and paste' is the easiest way to go. That's what I use. SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC) and dodging the hurricane.

2. 
   Johneramics | Aug 23, 2009 05:15am | #6

   You mentioned about picture hooks. I make mirror frames and put a key hole in the back to hang them on. You can also use more than one on a large rectangular frame. I am using picture screws to hang them that are sold by http://www.leevalley.com item #00F1455. They have deep threads, a washer, a gap, a head an you put them right into the drywall. No need to find a stud. They are rated for 20# in drywall. Check them out guys! I have a jig I made to cut the keyhole slots. I also make some square frames using some 12" square beveled mirrors that are sold by the big box stores. I have another jig that I cut a keyhole in the corner so you can hang it on an angle.Johneramics

3. 
   roc | Aug 23, 2009 06:20am | #7

   Is this any help ?

   http://www.dickblick.com/products/d-ring-hangers/

   See the model with two holes and two screws per D-ring. I couldn't get that one to show up when clicking on the address above.

   then use wire

   http://www.dickblick.com/products/braided-picture-wire/

   through the " D " ring and twist, twist, twist

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   Edited 8/22/2009 11:22 pm by roc

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/22/2009 11:24 pm by roc

4. 
   RalphBarker | Aug 23, 2009 05:58pm | #8

   The key to strong frames is strong joinery, I think. Instead of just a miter joint, use a miter with a spline. Or, perhaps a dovetailed lap joint, or dowels for added strength. Biscuits are good for alignment, but don't add much strength, if any, for example.

   For your round frame, I'd start with a segmented polygon, as suggested, and then add dowels for strength. Just be sure the dowels fit within the eventual circular profiles. Then, use a bandsaw/router combo to create the circle. You might consider doing a dry fit on two opposing joints of the polygon, so the inside circle can be roughed out on the bandsaw, too, then glue those before finishing with a router.

   All of this requires a fairly robust cross-section to the wooden frames, of course. If/when that doesn't work aesthetically for the piece, you might consider an iron frame around the work, and then use that to hang from.

5. 
   BrianDerr | Aug 23, 2009 06:29pm | #9

   I think the half-lap joint, clamped across the cheeks is the strongest. And don't use sticks that are too narrow. As long as you don't need a miter for visual reasons.

   Brian

6. 
   boilerbay | Aug 24, 2009 05:19pm | #10

   I've seen some frames under construction/restoration at a Versailles workshop (for the castle). Bigger than your needs but perhaps you can get insight from them. They weighed in in the hundreds of pounds for the frame and picture. They were for pictures that were 15 x 20 (feet) and up and one was circular.
   The construction was pinned mitred bridal for each joint, with each layer of frame glued and pinned off axis by the number of frames required for the total thickness of the frame. Then milled to even sides with hand saws and rasps. Much like you would with a router and bearing on a smaller project. I seem to remember that the frame on the circular one - the layer I could see was 6 or 8 segments. Steel strap was used for installation pulleys. Then they would be bolted into the walls (plugged and gilded in situ). No hanger hooks on these babies - too big :)

   Boiler