Replies

1. 
   Pippins | Oct 19, 2006 03:39pm | #1

   KDM, you may want to design the top to be removed.

   I had a roll top desk that was extremely heavy. Once the top was removed, both sections, top and bottom, were manageable to lift and move.

   The top was attached to the case with hardwood spinners that were attached at the pivot point with screws to the underside of the top. The end of the spinners would engage slots in the case.

   To remove the top, you simply rotated the spinners 90 degrees to disengage the slots and lifted it off.

   The spinnners actually performed two functions. They kept the top in correct placement and they held the top to the case.

   Steve  

    

    

2. 
   nikkiwood | Oct 19, 2006 08:32pm | #2

   I recently built a chest of drawers for a 13 year old kid, and part of my instructions from the client was to make sure it was easy to move around -- as he went to college, etc.

   So instead of fastening the top to the chest, I put in four dowels that would serve to register its proper position.

   There may be more elegant ways to do it, but that was the simplest solution I could come up with.

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

3. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Oct 20, 2006 02:07am | #3

   Duke, the split case looks good to me. I have a very, very old secretary (not 6' and blond) 8' and walnut, glass doors on the upper that sits on a chest of drawers. The side walls of the library upper nest down into the open center chest several inches. It's MUCH easier to move or reinstall.

   This piece may well be the basis of a retirement fund, to wit: all nails are cut nails, all finishing nails and brads(such as those holding the scraped 1/4 round  keeping the glass in place) are triangular, board and batten back is unfinished and fuzzy oxidised at the rear and all screws and nuts and bolts are non symetrical (hand hewen), one hopes? All the best, Pat

   BTW, it has a unique method for setting the adjustable height of the shelves for books. All shelves are notched in their 4 corners 1/4  x  1  1/2 and they probably took a latice 3 x 1/4 and bored 3/4" holes every 1 1/4 " or so and then split the latice to create two strips per side of half circles that were glued into the corners to accept a 1/4" popsicle stick with a dressed 3/4" half round at each end forming the adjustable ledge for the shelves. Works like a charm. I guess they didn't have LV hardware or shelf drilling guides in 17 or 18??. HA,HA. PFH

   
   

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   Edited 10/19/2006 7:27 pm ET by PADDYDAHAT

1. 
   citrouille | Oct 21, 2006 12:12am | #4

   If you don't want to go the detachable way, tapered sliding dove tails are the solution.C

4. 
   sapwood | Oct 21, 2006 04:41am | #5

   You are right to consider that it will be lifted by its top. That's a natural thing for people to do. Your cabinet may not be suitable for a removable top..... that wouldn't be unusual. So: use more buttons and/or make them a bit larger than usual. I always feel the weak link to the buttons is the screw into the top unless the top is very thick and can take a long screw. I've gone to the trouble on a heavy table to install those brass threaded inserts.

1. 
   dukeone | Oct 21, 2006 05:59am | #6

   Sapwood: Sounds like the answer is going to be more/heavier buttons. The project is still in planning and the top is going to be 4/4 so your idea of metal inserts sounds useful. I might also do something like full length "buttons" ie: a single piece the length of the top and maybe a slideing dovetail without glue on the divider.

   Everyone: thanks for the help.

   KDM"... if people did not die so untidily, most men, and all women, would commit at least one murder in their lives." R. Kipling